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Wild Country VC Pro Belay Device: Smooth, Secure, Simple
I’ve burned through a number of different belay devices, as my climbing obsession (and job) lead to unremitting use of these tools from March to November. I chose to test the Wild Country VC Pro because of its seemingly simple but effective design. This piece is an update from the VC belay device that has…
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Sunlinq 12Watt 12V Portable Power Pack: A Lightweight, Foldable Solar Charger
Guided clients demand a higher level of safety and preparation than you might find in a recreational group. Part of being safe is keeping your packs lean without skimping on necessary safety gear. While guiding I often need a satellite or cell phone to schedule pick-ups with my bush pilot, check weather, or communicate in…
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A Tribute to Bob Bates
Alpinist’s tribute to Robert Hicks Bates, 96, relentless first ascensionist, member of the “Harvard Five,” former president of the American Alpine Club, honorary member of the 10th Mountain Division and all-around upstanding citizen.
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Shingu Charpa East Face Route Photos
The Russian Team that climbed Shingu Charpa’s east face sends these photographs and topos of the route.
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Exclusive: The Escape from Alcatraz
Rich Purnell makes the first ascent of the disputed M14 endurance climb, Alcatraz. An Alpinist TV exclusive.
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Black Diamond nForce Ascenders: The Heavy-Duty Choice
The newly designed Black Diamond nForce ascenders were a crucial piece of gear for my main climbing project this summer. Using static and dynamic fixed lines from 8-11 millimeters, my partner and I spent about ten days working on a first ascent, free, on the east face of Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos. Although the…
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Mountain Hardwear Typhoon Jacket: No Water, No Weight
The search for the perfect multi-season jacket is exasperating–it has to perform well in various temperatures and conditions yet pack well, weigh nothing and (most importantly) look good. So you can imagine my excitement when I found a lightweight, durable shell that lived up to all my expectations. I found Mountain Hardwear’s Women’s Typhoon Jacket…
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Adventures in El Chorro, Spain
Dodging trains, jumping gaps, and climbing some of the best limestone cracks in the world–the first part of an adventure series on El Chorro, the “Jewel of the Mediterranean,” by photographer and writer Traveler Taj Terpening.
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Worthy of a Future Cover of Alpinist
Alpinauts? Astroneers? The Cassini probe just returned this photo of Iapetus. Let’s hope we get there someday–that ridge looks awesome.
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China-Tibet Mountaineering Association Announces Everest Rules for 2008
I am just back from an official visit to Lhasa, Tibet, where I attended the celebrations of the China Tibet all 14, 8000m peaks success in a group. The three successful summiteers of All 14, 8000m Peaks are Tshering Dorje, Pemba Tashi and Lhotse under the leadership of Samdruk. Asian Trekking sponsored one of their…
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