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Application period opens for 2019 Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award
The application period is now open for the second annual Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award. Applications are due by March 15 for trips taking place between April 1, 2019, and March 31, 2020.
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Alpinist Editor-in-Chief selected as a judge for the Boardman Tasker Award
Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives has been selected as a judge for the 2019 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. The other two judges are Roger Hubank and Tony Shaw. The award will be presented at the next Kendal Mountain Festival in the United Kingdom on November 14-17.
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Black Diamond Ultralight Express screws: A versatile screw for a more refined audience
Hyalite Canyon local Todd Preston tested out the new Black Diamond Ultralight Express screws on some of Montana’s classic ice climbs. He concluded, “For…pursuits where weight savings can be critical, the Ultralights are clearly the new gold standard and I would rate them 5 stars. However, several days of climbing frozen waterfalls using both Ultralights…
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The Lost Times–Los Tiempos Perdidos
In this Full Value story from Alpinist 64, Quentin Lindfield Roberts confronts the long journey home and the occasionally even-greater dangers of daily life after his climbing partner nearly dies in an accident on Cerro Torre.
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Black Diamond Reactor Ice Tools: A solid choice for cragging and steep ice
Todd Preston is a geologist for the US Geological Survey who has been ice climbing for 20 years. He tested the Black Diamond Reactor ice tools and concluded that the Reactors are ideal for steep ice and cragging, awarding them a solid four stars.
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Raggedy Man
After recovering from a severe illness in the wake of the Gulf War, veteran Scott Coldiron returns to his long-abandoned climbing dreams–exploring new ice in remote parts of Montana’s Cabinet Mountains Wilderness. In this On Belay story from Alpinist 64, Coldiron traces the formative experiences of his hard-knock childhood, his discovery of what the mountains…
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Q&A with Alpinist Assistant Research Editor Anders Ax
Every story in Alpinist is thoroughly fact-checked. “Fact checking” has become a more common term in today’s digital headlines, as accusations of “fake news” and “alternative facts” abound in our society. In this feature, Alpinist Associate Editor Paula Wright interviews Alpinist Research Editor Anders Ax about the strategy and nuance of exhaustive fact-checking and how…
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American Alpine Club announces 2019 award recipients
The American Alpine Club recently announced the award recipients who will be honored at the club’s annual benefit dinner on March 9 in San Francisco, California. The honorees are Kelly Cordes, Jim Donini, Brette Harrington, Tom Hornbein, Jeremy Jones, Michael Kennedy and Kate Rutherford. Dennis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Jaroslaw Botor and Piotrek Tomala are also…
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Local Hero: Stacy Bare
In this Local Hero profile from Alpinist 64, Teresa Baker writes about Iraq War veteran Stacy Bare and how climbing introduced him to new perspectives, helped him recover and inspired him to seek out ways that nature could help others cope with trauma. “Being able to get outside is a gift,” he says.
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The new Petzl Nomic: Same swing with new picks, a mini hammer, functional spike and improved handle
Chris Van Leuven tested the latest version of the Petzl Nomic ice tools. He reports that the upgraded Nomics have that same familiar look and feel–same swing–as with previous generations, but are now more functional and come with additional features. His main criticism is that the tools come standard with the Pur’Ice pick, which is…
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Grit and Rock grant applications due by January 15
The Grit and Rock First Ascent Expedition Award for female alpinists is now accepting applications until January 15, 2019. The program launched in October 2016 and is now in its third cycle.
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No bull: Too tired to see right after a first ascent in Montana’s Cabinet Range
Jess Roskelley wrote the following story about a new route he climbed with Scott Coldiron on A Peak in Montana’s Cabinet Mountains on November 18-21. They named their route Canmore Wedding Party (AI5 M7, 2,625′). Coldiron, a veteran of the Gulf War, wrote an On Belay story for Alpinist 64 about returning to the Cabinet…
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North Face Women’s Summit L4 Softshell Pants: A good choice for alpine climbers
Whitney Clark tested The North Face Women’s Summit L4 Softshell Pants in a variety of alpine climbing conditions and found them to be well designed to handle the wear and tear of ascending rock and snow and they were also well-made for female climbers. Her main complaint is that the fabric pilled after washing. Four…
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To Father from Daughter
In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 64, Alexandra Lev delves into the past of her father who was already a highly accomplished mountaineer by the time she was born. She writes, “I’d meet climbers and skiers who would say to me with excitement, ‘Your dad is Peter Lev?’ They called him a legend. To…
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Latok I: Impossible Is Not Forever
In this story that first appeared in Alpinist 64, Alexander Gukov shares his experience of surviving alone for a week at 6200 meters on Latok I (7145m) after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death on the descent with most of their equipment. Gukov was ultimately rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation flown by…
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Alpinist Community Project Flashback: Nina Glazunov-Neverov
From October 1-6, 2018, Nina Glazunov-Neverov shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about the life of her husband Sergey Glazunov, who reached a historic highpoint with Alexander Gukov on the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m) in Pakistan. During their descent, on July 25, Sergey Glazunov fell to his death. He was only…
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Keita Kurakami frees El Capitan’s Nose as a rope-solo and 15-year-old Connor Herson becomes the youngest to free the iconic wall
Two historic free ascents happened within the last several days on the Nose (VI 5.14a, 2,900′) of El Capitan: Keita Kurakami free climbed the route as a rope-solo in a single push from the ground on November 14-18, and 15-year-old Connor Herson free climbed it in a three-day push with his dad belaying and cleaning…
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A letter to Chip Chace (1958-2018): “Excuse Me While I Liquid Sky”
Chip Chace was one of the most well-rounded climbers of his generation and was known to keep many of his exploits quietly to himself. He was also a highly respected practitioner of Chinese medicine. Born on September 17, 1958, he died of pancreatic cancer on November 3 at age 60. He is survived by his…
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SPOT X 2-Way Satellite Messenger: A worthy tool for explorers and risk-takers
Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz took the SPOT X 2-Way Satellite Messenger into the mountains and desert to test its capabilities. He appreciated the device’s unlimited two-way messaging and navigational tools, not to mention the potential to send an SOS signal if he needed a rescue, but he reports that there is room for improvement.…
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Cannonball: Cooper and Cordes hit their stride with a new mixed route on Longs Peak
On October 18, Kevin Cooper and Kelly Cordes completed a new three-pitch mixed route on the lower east face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, which they named Cannonball (M5 R WI5+/6 X, 3 pitches). Cordes wrote the following story about their experience on the rarely seen ice formation.
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Osprey Mutant 22: A go-to for the no-frills, fast-and-light climber
Alpine guide Mallorie Estenson has been using the Osprey Mutant 22-liter backpack for multipitch climbs around the Pacific Northwest, and she found it to be well designed for those fast-and-light day trips when you want to bring a bit more than the rope, rack and shirt on your back. Four stars.
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Update: Scientists study loose flake in Black Canyon while Sorkin and Harlan climb for the Grief Fund
Madaleine Sorkin and Mary Harlan raised awareness for the Climbing Grief Fund by climbing two routes in the Black Canyon in a day on October 29. Their intentions to climb a third route were thwarted by rain. In May, a loose flake had resulted in a climbing closure that ended their earlier plans for a…
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Suunto 9: A computer for athletes in the form of a wristwatch
Longtime climber and endurance athlete Quinn Brett tested the Suunto 9 wristwatch and found it to be mostly user-friendly, offering a wealth of data to assist mountain go-getters. Her main criticisms about the watch are its bulky size and some difficulty synchronizing the watch with her phone. Four stars.
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American Alpine Club accepting applications for climbing and adventure grants
The American Alpine Club is now accepting applications for its Cutting Edge Grant, the Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant and the Jones Live Like Liz Award–due by November 30. In partnership with the Access Fund, the AAC also recently awarded $10,000 to replace aging bolts at nine US climbing areas.
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