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Rematriating Our Lives: Indigeneity and What it Means to Climb
In this Wired story from Alpinist 77–which is now available on newsstands and in our online store–Micheli Oliver contemplates some of many metaphors of ascent for herself and other Indigenous women.
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Jackson Marvell, Matt Cornell et al. climb two new routes on Alaska’s Pyramid Peak
In early-mid April, Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell took advantage of a short window of good conditions to climb two new routes on Pyramid Peak in Alaska’s Revelation Range: Techno Terror (AI6 M7+ R A0, 3,600′) and Smoke ‘Em If You Got ‘Em (AI5+ A2+, 3,600’). Austin Schmitz and Jack Cramer joined them for the…
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Japanese team completes first ascent of Kangchung Nup’s NW face in Nepal
After several attempts by other talented climbers in recent years, two alpinists from Japan completed the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Kangchung Nup (6089m) in Nepal. Takeshi Tani and Toshiyuki Yamada estimated the difficulty of their 900-meter route–which they climbed, round-trip from Gokyo village from April 21 to 24–to be ED1: M5 WI4/AI4.…
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Ukrainian alpinists share stories of life amid the Russian invasion
From fighting in active combat on the front lines, to scrambling to find food and supplies, to struggling to find a refuge for their families abroad, Ukrainian climbers have had their lives turned upside down by the Russian invasion. Three of them share glimpses into what their day-to-day existence looks like amid war.
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Clint Helander, Andres Marin complete their “dream route” on Golgotha in Alaska’s Revelation Range
On March 25, Clint Helander and Andres Marin stood on top of Golgotha (8,940′) in Alaska’s Revelation Range after completing the first ascent of Shaft of the Abyss (VI AI5 R M5 90° Snow A0, ca. 4,000′). They had previously attempted the route three times together in 2016, 2017 and 2018, reaching a high point…
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2022 Grit and Rock Award recipients announced
The recipients of the 2022 Grit and Rock Award for female first ascents have been announced. This year’s winners include Priti and Jeff Wright (USA); Lise Billion, Maud Vanpoulle (France) and Raphaela Haug (Germany); Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena and Rebeca Caceres Lente (Chile); plus a general grant to the French National Female Alpine Team (ENAF).…
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Pandemic Impacts of 2020 and 2021 Raise Questions for Adventure Tourism
Nepal halted on-arrival tourist visas for the majority of foreign visitors and canceled all spring mountaineering expeditions. The country wouldn’t reopen until August 2020, just in time for the post-monsoon trekking season. As climbing journalist Holly Yu Tung Chen looks back on the impacts of the pandemic on the economies and health of mountain communities…
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Laura Tiefenthaler Solos the Eiger North Face
On March 25, 2022, in an impressive 15-hour push, the 25-year-old Austrian Laura Tiefenthaler became the second known woman to solo the Heckmair Route on the Eiger-and thus the second known woman to solo the iconic Eiger North Face–thirty years after Catherine Destivelle’s historic solo of the route. (Two other women, Alison Hargreaves and Evelyne…
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I Gaze at My Mountains
In “I Gaze at My Mountains” (translated by Mark Andryczyk and Yaryna Yakubyak), a Ukrainian poet and children’s book publisher, Ivan Malkovych, evokes the intense significance of the Carpathian mountains, where he grew up–and where tens of thousands of Ukrainian refugees have fled during the ongoing Russian invasion of their country. We are republishing the…
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Haunted by Venus
For more than two decades, Choi Suk-mun has climbed around the world, including first ascents on giant Himalayan peaks; yet he remains haunted by a five-pitch rock route back home in South Korea.
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Climbers rally against proposed tramway and expanded bus lanes in Utah’s Little Cottonwood Canyon
A big decision that was anticipated to be made this April has been pushed back to summer after the continued outpouring of comments regarding the future of Little Cottonwood Canyon just outside of Salt Lake City, Utah. The decision facing the Utah Department of Transportation is whether to proceed with one of two plans: build…
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Carlo Traversi is first to have sent both Magic Line and Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite
Carlo Traversi has once again proven himself as one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world, with his recent redpoint of Yosemite’s Magic Line (5.14c) on February 27. Traversi is the fourth person to send the route, and the third to do it placing all the thin gear on lead. This ascent also…
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Of Thin Ice
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 77–which is now on newsstands and in our online store–Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives looks back on autumn climbs and ponders the allure and haunting symbolism of early season ice.
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American Alpine Club’s Annual Award and Benefit Gala resumes in-person event in Denver after two-year hiatus
The American Alpine Club’s Annual Award and Benefit Gala is returning to an in-person event in Denver, Colorado, on Saturday, March 26, but people will still have the option to tune in online this year. Jordan Cannon and Mark Hudon are this year’s keynote speakers, and the awardees are Pat Ament, Sean Bailey, Natalia Grossman,…
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Russian and Ukrainian climbers speak out against the invasion of Ukraine
Since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine on February 24, some Russian climbers have publicly spoken out against their country’s aggression. In a country known for reprisals against people who openly oppose President Vladimir Putin’s regime, this act involves personal risk. Meanwhile Ukrainian climbers confront the attacks on their country. The Russian climbing website Mountain.RU posted an…
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International climbing organizations cancel events in Russia in response to the country’s invasion of Ukraine
In response to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine on February 24, the International Olympic Committee called for the cancellation of all sporting events that were scheduled in Russia and Belarus. In turn, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) have cancelled the World Cup sport and ice climbing…
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Charles Dubouloz completes the first solo winter ascent of Rolling Stones on the Grandes Jorasses
From January 13 to 18, Charles Dubouloz completed what is likely the first solo winter ascent of Rolling Stones (5.10 A3, or M8, 1100m) a rarely repeated route on the fabled north face of the Grandes Jorasses above Chamonix, France. He spent six days with five bivies on the wall, pressing on through strong winds…
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A Beginner’s Guide to Suffering
In this feature story from The Climbing Life section of Alpinist 76–which is now available on newsstands and in our online store–Brandon Blackburn considers some influences that inspired him to climb and seek self validation through risk and suffering. He writes: “The most significant catalyst for my own shift in perspective on suffering came, as…
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BioLite AlpenGlow Lanterns: Functional mood lighting for your tent, car or campsite
Mountain Standards Gear Review: Miya Tsudome is a former rock climbing guide who now makes a living as a photographer, and she’s also a van-life veteran who can appreciate camping accessories like the BioLite AlpenGlow Lanterns. She writes: “After I’ve lived with [them] for over six months now, [they have] definitely improved my camping game….…
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Corrado ‘Korra’ Pesce dies after climbing new route on Cerro Torre with Tomas Aguilo
On Thursday, January 27, two teams of climbers summited Cerro Torre together after completing two new, parallel routes up the Patagonian tower. But while they were descending, an avalanche injured Tomas “Tommy” Aguilo (Argentina) and killed 41-year-old Corrado “Korra” Pesce (Italy). A rescue effort involved more than 40 people toiling for nearly two days without…
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Edelrid Neo 3R: A quality rope made with recycled pre-consumer materials
Mountain Standards Gear Review: Lance Colley tested the Edelrid Neo 3R rope while living and working in Yosemite this past autumn. Colley enjoys speed climbing on big walls and has a few records to his name, and he was able to put some heavy mileage on Edelrid’s new rope design, which is made with 50%…
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Local Hero: Kim Chang-ho
In this Local Hero story from Alpinist 75 (Autumn 2021), Oh Young-hoon, former editor of Alpinist Korea, memorializes Kim Chang-ho and his philosophy of “being mountaineering.”
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Polish duo endures severe cold on big wall for 11 days to complete Frozen Fight Club
Polish climbers Marcin “Yeti” Tomaszewski and Damian “Dany” Bielecki completed a new big wall aid route in Pakistan’s Karakoram Range on a 700-meter cliff known as the Uli Biaho Gallery. They spent 11 days establishing Frozen Fight Club (M7 A3, 780m) on December 5-16. Frozen Fight Club might be the first big wall route in…
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Yosemite Dreams
In this On Belay story from Alpinist 76–which is now on newsstands and available in our online store–our digital editor Derek Franz travels to Yosemite to climb through layers of historical and personal past, and witnesses some history in the making.
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