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Petzl Laser Speed and Laser Speed Light: More Than Just the New Screw
A climber’s relationship with his ice screw rack is a personal thing. Find the right match and life will be good. Play the field, using whatever happens to clip to your harness and you may regret it later.
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Through the Field: A Photo Essay
We reached out to Graham Zimmerman, author of “Through the Field: The First Ascent of Changi Tower and The Southwest Ridge of K6 West,” in our latest issue, Alpinist 53, and asked him to share additional photos for us to post online.
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Mooncakes and Rice: Qionglai Mountains
Qionglai Mountains, China. After several weeks of effort spread out between bouts of rainfall, Szu-ting Yi and her husband Dave Anderson completed their new route on the South Face of Eagle Peak East (5300m), calling it Secret Moon Cake (5.10 R, 760m).
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Lightweight Warmth in REI’s Revelcloud Hoodie
I’ve used an REI Revelcloud Hoodie for a year now and have worn it in all seasons and while participating in numerous activities, including ice climbing, running, hiking and climbing. Every time I put it on I find it useful, no matter the time of year.
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AAC Recognizes David Allfrey for Outstanding Accomplishment
“It’s a huge honor. I’m in shock about whole thing,” David Allfrey said when we congratulated him after hearing that the American Alpine Club awarded him the Robert Hicks Bates Award.
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Letters: Fire in the Cascades
In which a reader, asking for replacement copy of Alpinist 43, shares a grim tale of how the original was lost.
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Sharp End: The Ice World, Beyond
During the Victorian Age, an intrepid group of women helped pioneer winter mountaineering–only to have their contributions largely vanish from mainstream history.
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Rab Xenon Hoody: A Compressible Puffy for Cold Rock Climbs
When you climb in cold places, you quickly learn the value of a lightweight puffy jacket. The promise of a sunny morning can dissolve quickly in the alpine: the wall passes into shadow, belays get long and cold, and the wind picks up. An insulated jacket can make the difference between starting the next pitch…
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Yosemite in the Fifties The Iron Age: An Interview with the Photo Collector
Photographer Dean “Bullwinkle” Fidelman, a 1970s Stonemaster, has called Yosemite his home for decades, first arriving there in 1971. He has produced several books celebrating the park’s climbing culture.
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Metanoia
IT’S DIFFICULT TO SEPARATE WHAT part of the Eiger’s ambience is due to its actual limestone, snow and ice, and what part is due to all the stories that played out on that grand vertical stage. I don’t think it matters at this point.Most aspirants will start with those tales finely etched in their brains.…
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Hyperlite Mountain Gear Dyneema 2400 Ice Pack: Strong, Tough and Ultralight
We packed up camp high on the Roosevelt Glacier and began climbing towards Mt. Baker’s North Ridge (WI2-3, 3,000′, Beckey-Widrig, 1948), in Washington’s North Cascades, at 6 a.m. Challenging weather conditions required creative route finding. At noon, six hours later, we climbed into a storm below the summit.
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Petzl Sitta: Full Function and Barely Even There
Though I spend countless hours in a harness every season, I rarely get excited about them. To me, they are merely utilitarian. As long as the harness is comfortable and functional, I don’t think too much about it. That changed with the new Petzl Sitta harness.
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Electric Tech One Sunglasses: Essential Gear for Alpine Adventures
This year I put my new pair of Electric Tech One sunglasses through rigorous field-testing. I wore them on a month-long climbing trip to Colorado’s Front Range, the Moab area and northern Arizona.
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