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Wales Grade-X Winter Route Climbed Onsight
In late December, Ian Parnell and Pete Harrison completed the new route graded X, 9, Wide Asleep, onsight in North Wales. Over two pitches, the team ascended poorly protected, insecure terrain–protected solely by cams and nuts–pulling off “by far the hardest thing I’ve been on,” said Parnell.
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Cerro Torre Free Soloed in Whiteout Conditions
From El Chalten, Alpinist correspondent Rolo Garibotti relays what he calls, “one of the most harrowing ascents in Patagonian climbing history.”
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Video: Aid Turns Free on Mt. Hooker
Inspired during a trip to Wyoming’s Wind River Range the previous season, David Allfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle returned to the Winds this August to free an A3 route on Mt. Hooker. Kyle Berkompas filmed their project.
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Slideshow: Unclimbed Big Walls of Siberia
Inspired by a single photo, Australians Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner visit unclimbed big walls in remote northeastern Russia. Pulling out moss clumps and excavating gear placements with a nut tool, the team established six new routes and, with their camera, captured the experience.
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Alpine-Style Attempts on the South Face of Nuptse
Two Canadian alpinists dodge large avalanches on the storied South Face of Nuptse. None of their several attempts extends beyond half height on the massive alpine wall, but–through careful decision-making–they live to tell the story.
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Short Film: K6 West
Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted and Jesse Huey travel to Pakistan to climb K6 West. At the moment of their departure down the KKH, they learn of the massacre at Nanga Parbat base camp. Each is now faced with a decision. As Jesse returns home, Raphael and Ian continue with the trip and ultimately stand on…
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Back(side) Pain
“Sixty-five Sierra routes that first summer; about a dozen the next, a fifth of them first ascents. Brutal-as-hell approaches with seventy-pound packs, decrepit knees and bad footwear. I blame Steve, but really, he and I were just the syringe plungers, and the Sierra Nevada was the heroin.”
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More than a Mountain
Peter Croft ambles along “the local epicenter of sideways mountaineering”–the High Sierra’s Palisades–in his own Peter Croft kind of way.
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The Nature of Memory
Joan Jensen searches through old boxes to uncover memories of her daring yet methodical soulmate, the late Don Jensen.
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A Note from Our Palisades Profile Writer
I thought I knew the Palisades, my home range. That is until I was deep in the process of writing a Mountain Profile about them for Alpinist 48.
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Picking the Plum Line on the Storm Creek Headwall
“…As Marc neared the station, he asked if all climbing in the Rockies was this good. I had to apologize for spoiling him on his first route.”
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Chasing the Ethereal on South Howser Tower
There are only a handful of days in a climber’s life where weather, conditions and partner line up like the planets aligning to create a rare event: a magical first ascent.
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