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Wild Country Helium: A Finicky But Quality Friend
I have spent the last year and a half plugging the Heliums into cracks throughout the Western US, including the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Lover’s Leap, Yosemite and a few other areas. While they have a design common among high-quality cams, they were trickier to place and to clean because of their stem…
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Speed Soloing the Chief: An Interview with Marc-Andre Leclerc
Earlier this month, twenty-year-old Squamish local Marc-Andre Leclerc solo-climbed Squamish’s Chief three times in 17 hours: the historic Grand Wall route, topping out on the wall via Upper Black Dyke; the 1970 Burton-Sutton aid line, Uncle Ben’s; and the classic University Wall. What Leclerc found difficult was not the technical grade, the speed or the…
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Will Gadd Climbs Newfoundland Choss Towers
Seeking the landscape captured in a friend’s photo, Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken travel to Newfoundland’s coastal sea stacks, an area little known to climbers (perhaps for good reason).
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What the New NPS Wilderness Climbing Policy Means for Climbers and Bolting
For decades, the future legality of fixed anchor use in Wilderness areas remained uncertain. Because land management agencies had no national guidance to assist local planners and managers, each local park and national forest was left to interpret the Wilderness Act–as it pertains to fixed anchors–on its own, and with wildly varying results. Last month…
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Desperate Country: Seven Days on the Fence
Over seven days, Jens Holsten and Chad Kellogg made their way across the toothy ridgeline of the Northern and Southern Pickets in the Cascade Mountains. The ten-mile linkup would be one of the longest routes in the Lower 48–had they completed it.
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AAC Publications Online Database: A Clean and (Mostly) Functional Upgrade
In all, the Club’s new publications database will serve as a magnificent improvement over its finicky and frustrating predecessor (though there are still a few deficiencies to navigate). Users will find more of what they’re looking for, and less of what they’re not–presented in clean, readable format.
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2013 Everest Report: A Curse, a Fight and the Aftermath
Modern Sherpa climbers have achieved some respect within the commercial guiding community–their status the result of evolving power structures through decades of Himalayan mountaineering. But as we look into the background of the April 27, 2013 outburst in Camp II on the south side of Everest, one discrepancy becomes apparent: the credit and wages Sherpas…
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