Alpinist Magazine

On September 30, 2011, Italian climbers Marco and Herve Barmasse, a father and son from Northern Italy, established a new route on the southeast face of Signalkuppe (4554m), a peak in the Monte Rosa massif. The 800-m route (ED) signifies the end of Herve Barmasse’s “Exploring the Alps” project, in which he put up new routes on three of the range’s most prominent peaks—the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and finally Monte Rosa.

On March 8, 2011, Herve Barmasse began the first installment of his project–a new, solo route up the south face of Picco Muzio, a subpeak on the Furggen Ridge of the Matterhorn. His chosen line, a 700-meter overhanging pillar, had never been explored before, though many other routes cover the face. After two days of poor weather and lots of rockfall, Barmasse abandoned his attempt. For one month he continued to think about the potential on the Matterhorn, and on April 6 he tried again. Four days and three bivvies later, Barmasse reached the summit. His father was waiting for him there, and the two descended the Matterhorn together.

The second ascent of Barmasse’s project was a new route on Mont Blanc, established with Basque brothers Iker and Eneko Pou, with which Barmasse wanted to “point out the great value of a roped party and the pleasure of sharing mountaineering with friends.”

In late January the Vermont ice climbing community gathers for its social event of the year, the Smugglers’ Notch Ice Bash, organized by Sunrise Adventure Sports. The Alpinist staff teamed up with our neighbors at Climberism to put together this video of the 2012 Smuggs’ Ice Bash. (Props to Ray Kania for editing this on short notice.) Between two nights of free beer, a dry tooling competition, one day of climbing hard and another day spent sharing the joy of ice with new friends who had never climbed before, we had an absolutely stellar time. See you next January at the Smuggs’ Ice Bash!