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Derek Franz

Ron Kauk on top of Uli Biaho, 1979. [Photo] Courtesy of the American Alpine Club

American Alpine Club’s 2021 Benefit Gala and Awards will be a free virtual event

As the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic continues, the American Alpine Club’s Annual Benefit Gala and award presentation will once again be held virtually on February 20. The good news is that for the first time ever this will allow anyone with an Internet connection to have free access to the speeches and award presentations with some of climbing’s biggest names. This year’s honorees are Ron Kauk, Kai Lightner, Joanne and Jorge Urioste, author and co-founder of Gripped Magazine David Smart, former AAC president Glenn Porzak, Congressman Raul Grijalva, and AAC volunteers Rick Merritt and Nancy Savickas. The online event will also include many special guests, including Tommy Caldwell, Meagan Martin, Kilian Jornet, Emily Harrington and more.

K2 (8611m) as seen in summer. The Abruzzi Spur--the route of the first ascent by Italians in 1954 and the route used for the first winter ascent on January 16, 2021, by 10 Nepali climbers--follows the right-hand skyline. [Photo] Svy123, Wikimedia Commons

First winter ascent of K2: 10 Nepali/Sherpa climbers summit together

Just yesterday, K2 (8611) was the last of the 14 8000-meter peaks on Earth that had yet to be climbed in winter. No more. At 5 p.m. January 16, a group of 10 Nepali/Sherpa climbers from separate expeditions ascended the last few meters to the summit together as one. Summiting team members include Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja Pun Magar, Dawa Tenjin Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa and Sona Sherpa.

K2 (8611m) looms above base camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier. [Photo] Alex Gavan

Four expeditions are attempting the first winter ascent of K2: Alex Gavan discusses current efforts

There are currently four expeditions laboring for the first winter ascent of K2 (8611m), which is the last 8000-meter peak yet to be climbed in the coldest season. As of January 12, ropes have been fixed to Camp 3, just above 7300 meters, but that camp has yet to be fully established and recent high winds have destroyed and scattered gear at the lower camps. In this interview with Alpinist, Alex Gavan gives readers his perspective on how things are going on the mountain.

Newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert on their new route Wolke 7 (aka Cloud 9: 5.13b, 380m), on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl, Reiteralm, Austria. [Photo] Klaus Fengler

Luka Lindic and Ines Papert find big new routes close to home in Austria

After newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert canceled their Alaska expedition this past summer because of the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, they reconsidered what adventures they might find close to their home. The result was two first ascents of long routes–the 12-pitch Wolke 7 (aka Cloud Nine, 5.13b, 380m) on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl near Reiteralm, and in late November, a mixed alpine route on the north face of Sagwand Spitze in Valsertal, which they named Limited in Freedom (AI6 M6, 800m).

The author wearing the Ombraz Classic sunglasses on a hike last spring. [Photo] Mandi Franz

Ombraz Sunglasses: “Armless” and highly functional

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz has been wearing the unusual “armless” Ombraz Sunglasses since last spring. Instead of the typical rigid arms that are on most glasses, they are worn with an integrated lanyard that keeps them around the face or allows them to hang around the neck. The glasses also pack flat, allowing for easy stowing. Franz reports that Ombraz are highly durable with quality Zeiss Optics lenses. They are comfortable to wear with a variety of helmets but are less fashionable than traditional sunglasses. Four stars.

Derek Franz stays relaxed wearing the Black Diamond Vision MIPS helmet while onsighting Rock Candy (5.12a), a thin slippery route on Independence Pass, Colorado. [Photo] Elizabeth Riley

Black Diamond Vision MIPS Helmet: Head protection that’s as light and effective as ever

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz has been wearing the Black Diamond Vision MIPS helmet on many climbs, from long multipitch routes in the Black Canyon to short bolted sport climbs. “Thanks to advancements in materials and design, helmets are now so light and low-profile that it’s harder to justify not wearing one, even at the sport crag,” he writes. “Weighing slightly more than half-a-pound…factor in the durability of the Black Diamond Vision MIPS, and you have light, comfortable head protection that will holdup throughout frequent use.” Five stars.

Emily Harrington leading the Golden Desert pitch (5.13a) near the top of El Capitan. [Photo] Jon Glassberg, Louder Than 11

Emily Harrington becomes first woman to send El Capitan’s Golden Gate in a day

Late on November 4, Emily Harrington climbed over the lip of El Capitan (Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La) in the dark; she’d free climbed all 41 pitches of Golden Gate (5.13b, 3,000′) in 21 hours, 13 minutes and 51 seconds, becoming the fourth woman to free climb El Cap in a day, and the fourth person (and first woman) to free climb Golden Gate in a day. She succeeded in spite of a sideways fall near the top that left her with a bloody head wound–and after a fall during an attempt in 2019 that sent her to the hospital. “I pulled over the final lip at 10:30 p.m. in disbelief….” She wrote on Instagram.

Priti and Jeff Wright atop K6 Central (7100m). [Photo] Priti and Jeff Wright collection

Priti and Jeff Wright complete the first ascent of K6 Central (7100m)

Early last month, a Jeff and Priti Wright, a husband-wife team from Seattle, Washington, completed the third ascent of K6 West (7040m) and the first ascent of K6 Central (7100m) on October 8 and 9, respectively, and in alpine style. They returned the way they came: back up and over K6 West. The peaks are in the Pakistan-administered side of the Karakoram Range.

Mt. Forbes (3612m) with the East Face line (M4 WI3) climbed by Quentin Lindfield Roberts and Alik Berg drawn in red. [Photo] John Scurlock

Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg tick the first known ascent of Mt. Forbes’ East Face

The east face of Mt. Forbes (3612m) in the Canadian Rockies has presented a proud and obvious objective for generations of climbers, but it only just recently saw its first known ascent, on October 2, when Quentin Roberts and Alik Berg scampered up a direct line they are simply calling the East Face (M4 WI3+). The two made the round trip from October 1 to October 3. “People have been looking at that face for a long time,” Roberts told Alpinist. “It is just way back there and hard to gauge conditions…. There are a few faces like this left in the Rockies, but everything has to line up well if you want to do them!”