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Exotic Hampi: Video and Interview
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Follow climber Liv Sansoz to Hampi, India, where among palm trees, rice fields and ancient temples, she experiences some of the world’s greatest bouldering. Still hungry? Professional videographer Evrard Wendenbaum steps in to answer a few questions about filming the trip.
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The Boys of Everest
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An excerpt from Clint Willis’s book, The Boys of Everest–a semi-historical ride through the life of Sir Chris Bonington and the ragtag group of Brits who followed him to the world’s greatest peaks.
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Solo, Part V: Steph Davis
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Steph Davis is one of the world’s most accomplished female free soloists. She explains, in this Alpinist.com Solo Series exclusive, how she replaces fear with relaxed confidence to send exposed routes without a lifeline.
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Solo, Part IV: Alexander Huber
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What does it take to free solo 500 meters of 5.12? That’s a question only the likes of Alex Huber can answer–and here he does in this Alpinist.com Solo Series exclusive.
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Solo, Part III: Guy Lacelle
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After exploring the minds of rock master Alex Honnold and big wall diva Silvia Vidal, the Solo Series delves into the world of ice climbing with Guy Lacelle.
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Solo, Part II: Silvia Vidal
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Last week, Alex Honnold opened the Solo Series with his take on free soloing. This week, Silvia Vidal shares her thoughts on aid soloing big walls.
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Solo, Part I: Alex Honnold
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Alex Honnold kicks off the Weekly Feature Solo Series with insight on his vertically defined world.
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Aconcagua Speed Riding: Video and Interview
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Francois Bon takes a three-minute trip down the south face of Aconcagua, then lives to tell about it.
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Falling: Ines Papert
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Ines Papert discovers that a life-changing moment can assist in a search for the soul.
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Mountain Athlete: Weight Training for Climbing
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Where you pay to hurt. An honest look at one man’s weight-driven, vomit-inducing, climbing-centric athletic program.
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Moroccan Honeymoon: A Photo Essay
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Climbing is what defines each of our lives, and our life together. Adam and I met climbing. Our first date was climbing. Our first kiss was climbing. So, a climbing trip–but not just any climbing trip–was the only way we conceived of spending our honeymoon.
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Colin Haley: Young Alpinist on Fire
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At 11 am on January 24, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley stood on the summit of Cerro Torre after linking all four of the Torre Group’s iconic spires in a single, alpine style traverse…After they’d completed the traverse, for many people, the story that emerged was less of a retrospective into the project than it was a look toward the future.
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The Journey
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I’m believer in positive thinking. But in August I found myself wondering about the disconnect between believing in the bright side and giving it lip service. On a trip to the Lotus Flower Tower in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimbables, Ian Altman and his multiple sclerosis showed me how unyielding persistence can bridge this gap.
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Nakamura: Steward of Unclimbed Peaks
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With the advent of GIS, satellite images and other advanced cartographic applications, it seems the world is growing smaller by the minute. But long-time Alpinist contributor Tamotsu Nakamura–though he began his explorations after the Golden Age of Mountaineering ended–begs to differ.
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Remembering Cesarino Fava
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Alpinist remembers Cesarino Fava, who died on April 22, 2008 in Male, Italy. Share your thoughts and photos of Fava, whose greatest love were the peaks of Argentine and Chilean Patagonia.
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Inspirations, Part VI: Marko Prezelj
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Marko Prezelj shares his inspiration: Pot (The Way). “My ‘way’ has changed over time, but Zaplotnik’s foundations remain and continue to inspire.”
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Inspirations, Part V: The Wisdom of Exploration
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Damien Gildea shares his inspirations. “Repeats were given a line or two at most. Details were scarce, photos grainy—but how much help do you want? That approach, including only the essential and knowing what to leave out, reflected one of the basic tenets of alpinism. And all without the narrow-minded, style-as-dogma hectoring we get now from wannabe alpine prophets.”
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130 Kilometers an Hour in the Wrong Lane
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Smuggling climbing hardware onto planes, destroying rental cars, and climbing excellent limestone routes–the second part of an adventure series on Spain by photographer and writer Traveler Taj Terpening.
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Inspirations, Part IV: High Conquest
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Royal Robbins shares his inspiration: High Conquest. “It’s basically a history of mountaineering, but its most salient point is that the ‘high conquest’ of the title is not truly getting to the top of the highest peaks; it’s the conquest of those weak and timid parts of ourselves we don’t want running the show.”
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South Georgia: A Photo Essay
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Follow French alpinists through poor weather, unexpected obstacles, rough seas and defensive sea lion colonies on their crossing of South Georgia in the southern Atlantic.
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Chile: The Crusade for Virgin Rock
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“Long periods of high pressure, steep granite, moderate glaciers, ‘short’ approaches from base camp and 500-meter virgin walls seemed the norm in Brujo del Torres. The more research we did, the more we convinced ourselves we had found El Dorado…”
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High Crimes, Chapter 11
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The following story–an excerpt from the recently released nonfiction novel High Crimes–reveals the dark underbelly of high-altitude mountaineering: the loss of valuables, the loss of life.
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In Memoriam: Paul Dedi
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Remembering Alpinist’s most acclaimed artist–Paul Dedi–the rare personality whose enthusiastic, witty, scrappy outlook instituted him as an offbeat bastion of the climbing and illustrating communities.
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Cochamo: Into the Forest
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“So far we had little luck finding any climbing in Chile. But in a pension in Pucon there was a small photo on the wall showing a distant view of some interesting-looking cliffs, on a mountaintop above some woods. Our interest was roused immediately when, by chance, a local raft guide commented that no one had climbed on these walls, some of which rose 2,500 feet above the canopy.”
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Obsession and Ingenuity, Part IV: Kansas
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“We live in Lawrence, Kansas, my friend, a small college town lost in a sea of plains. If by local crag you mean a two-hour drive to some crumbling, dripping limestone in Missouri, then sure, that’s our local crag.”
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Remembering Sir Edmund Hillary
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Forty Kiwi mountaineers raised their axes as one to form the New Zealand Alpine Club’s honor guard when Sir Edmund Hillary’s coffin emerged…
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Inspirations, Part III: Gervasutti’s Climbs
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Simon Richardson shares his inspiration: Giusto Gervasutti. “As a teenager, consumed by a newfound passion for mountaineering, I had a voracious appetite for climbing books. I read my way through the school library and then the local town library, seeking out more adventures and experiences on the written page, so that I could gauge my own faltering beginnings in the sport.”
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Inspirations, Part II: High Alaska
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Kelly Cordes and Masatoshi Kuriaki share their inspiration. “High Alaska, the classic from Jonathan Waterman, started it all for me. But different writings have influenced me in different ways at different times. For me, influence has come from photos, words and people.”
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The 2008 Alpinist Film Festival
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Four nights. Twenty-two films. Eight premieres. One Grand Prize winner. $7,000+ raised for Surf Aid International. One bag of trash.
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Ouray 2008: A Video Story
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There are over a hundred lines in the Ouray Ice Park, but–if you’re actually looking to climb–any veteran’s recommendation is: “Wake up at 6 a.m., claim a line, and lap it all day. Best of luck.” Yet competition morning, January 12th, was different, if only for a few minutes.