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DMM Shadow Quickdraws: Hot-Forged Goodness


Price: $24.50 (12cm), $25.50 (18cm)

Weight: 3.2 ounces (12cm)

With a huge rack in my pack and a bunch of loose ‘biners and runners for alpine draws, I sometimes overlook a fundamental piece of climbing gear: the standard quickdraw. New for spring 2008 DMM is introducing the Shadow Quickdraw. The Shadow is a desirable piece of gear for the discerning climber who wants full-sized carabiners yet appreciates that ultimate combination: light weight and super strong.

This quickdraw set up–bar stock ‘biners with a Spectre draw–appeals to all styles of climbing, be it traditional or sport. The quality hot-forged hybrid is innovative in how light, but still strong the design is. The Shadow is rated up to 24 kilonewtons closed gate and 10kn open. I found the Shadow to be a great lightweight alternative to bulky runners when adding length to gear in deep pods and chimneys.

In the world of lighter and smaller I do prefer a larger carabiner for clipping. The Shadow’s solid gate has two features: a key lock nose to reduce snagging, and a recess on the plain gate. Both features make the draw solid in hand, and they inspire confidence while you are super pumped and clipping. An entire quickdraw weighing in at 3.2 ounces with full size ‘biners is unheard of in the cold-forged world.

The Shadow crossbreed is able to navigate the boundaries of light weight, crazy strength and full size. The end result is less clutter on your rack and less weight in your pack. If they weren’t so darned expensive, they’d deserve five stars.

Pros: Hot forged, and therefore strong but light; full-sized ‘biners; key lock and recess features on plain gate make for easy clipping; come in two lengths.

Cons: Expensive.