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Home » Mountain Standards » Rab Neutrino Endurance Jacket: An Alpinist’s Dream Come True

Rab Neutrino Endurance Jacket: An Alpinist’s Dream Come True


MSRP: $250

Weight: 625 grams (size medium)

Sometimes first impressions are hard to shake, and I tried not to let my first impression of the Rab Neutrino Endurance jacket influence this review. No luck. The jacket wowed me at first appearance. Made from a water-resistant Pertex Endurance outer fabric and packed with 850+ goose down fill, it’s an alpinist’s dream come true: maximum warmth to weight ratio in a lightweight, weatherproof package.

I tested this piece during the summer, mainly in the Bugaboos, where I didn’t hesitate to bring it along on every climb. Its light weight (625g) ensured it came everywhere. Finding myself caught in afternoon thundershowers from time to time, I was impressed at just how water-resistant the outer fabric was. I was equally impressed at the features and thought Rab put into the design. It has Velcro-adjustable cuffs, two-way zippers (key for fumble-free access to your harness and belay device), two external hand pockets with weatherproof zippers, an internal pocket and a stuff sack; it’s somehow lightweight, warm and weatherproof all at once; and the cut is perfect for throwing over other layers. The down-filled hood is fixed, fits nicely over a helmet, and has a stiffened visor and an ingeniously simple draw cord closure system that would be easy to use, even with bulky gloves on, to “batten the hatches” when the time comes. The waist also has an elastic draw cord and is cut to just below waistline, which I thought was great for that little bit of extra warmth.

Rab is a UK-based company that has been on the scene for years in Europe but is still relatively unknown in North America. They mostly specialize in outdoor clothing and sleeping bags but have recently branched out to make gloves, gaiters, bivy sacks, lightweight tents and other climbing accessories. [Check back to find more reviews of Rab products in the coming months. –Ed.] The jacket, with a foreign name and a styley look, inevitably became a conversation piece when I was wearing it around Applebee Campground. I couldn’t rave enough about it. Is there something I didn’t like? Maybe it would be nicer to stuff it into its inner pocket instead of a stuff sack, but I’m grasping here.

I know this piece will become a staple in my pack when it comes time for winter adventuring, from winter mountaineering to ice climbing to ski touring to bar-hopping on those cold nights. Buy this if you’re looking for the ultimate lightweight down jacket that can take a beating in the elements. Five stars.

Pros: Lightweight yet warm; water resistant; well-suited for every season, from winter to summer in the alpine; well designed; stylish

Cons: Compresses into stuff sack instead of inner pocket