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2010 Mugs Stump Award Winners Announced

Mugs Stump at 22,500′ on the West Face of Gasherbrum IV, Karakoram, Pakistan, in July 1983. $25,000 of Mugs Stump Awards grant money will be given out this year. [Photo] Michael Kennedy

Six teams, detailed below, have been announced as this year’s Mugs Stump Award winners. In the spirit of the award, grant recipients will attempt some of the world’s most striking climbing objectives in fast, light and clean style.

“The applications received for 2010 included many strong teams with objectives in far-flung corners of the mountaineering world, from Alaska to Pakistan, and Greenland to Tibet,” said Michael Kennedy, editor-in-chief of Alpinist and one of the founders of the Mugs Stump Award. “In the end, six teams with outstanding talent and objectives will receive a total of $25,000.” Grants range from $1500 to $6000.

The prestigious award, sponsored by Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Mountain Gear, Patagonia and W.L. Gore, was created in 1993 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America’s most prolific and visionary climbers. Please visit for more information on the award, to apply, and for trip reports from past recipients.

2010 Mugs Stump Award Winners

Colin Haley, Mt. Foraker, Alaska; with Bjorn-Eivind Aartun. A single-push first ascent on the southeast side of Alaska’s second-highest peak, one of the biggest unclimbed faces in the central Alaska Range.

Jasmin Caton, unnamed peak, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland; with Jen Olson and Kate Rutherford. An all-free route up a beautiful pillar in this remote region.

Joe Puryear, Karjiang, Tibet; with David Gottlieb. The first ascent of this stunning pyramid, at 7221 meters among the highest unclimbed summits in the world, employing the strictest leave-no-trace ethics.

Scott Adamson, Mooses Tooth, Alaska; with Tom Adamson. A new route on the east face of this legendary Alaska peak.

Toby Grohne, Siguniang, China; with Jesse Huey. A super light and fast alpine ascent of the 1500-meter northwest face, a major mixed route on this 6250-meter peak.

Dylan Johnson, Dojitsenga, Tibet; with Josh Wharton. An all-free, alpine-style ascent of the east buttress of this stunning and seldom-visited 5662-meter peak.