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On July 13, 2008, three Koreans summited Meru South (6660m), Garhwal Himalaya, via its previously unclimbed northeast face. After fixing about 6,000 feet of rope over ten days to get to Camp 2, situated at the base of the ca. 500-meter headwall, they culminated their expedition with a nine-day, capsule-style ascent to complete Gate to the Sky (5.10 A5). The Korean’s recent summit of Meru South is the first integral ascent since a Japanese team summited in 1980.
Please visit www.climbing.com and www.intotherocks.com for more on this story.