Marko Prezelj–the featured climber in Issue 8‘s Faces department–has been active in the Greater Ranges for more than fifteen years. His first ascents range from the Southwest Ridge of Kangchenjunga South (8476m) in 1991 to Menlungtse (7181m) in 1992 to Denali’s Light Traveler in 2001 to 2004’s repeat, with a major variation, of the Lowe-Jones Route on the north face of North Twin in the Canadian Rockies (see Alpinist Issue 8 for the complete story). While details are lacking, it appears he has just added to his ticklist, with a very technical new mixed climb on Chomo Lhari (7350m) on the Bhutan-Tibet border, with Boris Lorencic.
Sometimes referred to as the bride of Kangchenjunga, Chomo Lhari is the second highest mountain in Bhutan. Reports indicate that Prezelj and Lorencic climbed their new route in six days. Prezelj has always executed his ascents in pure alpine-style, and there is every indication the new route adhered to his usual ethics. Watch this space for more information as it becomes available.