free

Muhammed Ali Sadpara. [Photo] courtesy of Alex Txikon

Muhammad Ali of Sadpara

by Alpinist Magazine

In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 62 (2018), Amanda Padoan profiles Muhammad Ali of Sadpara, Pakistan, after he completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Simone Moro (Italy) and Alex Txikon (Spain) in February 2016. Padoan writes: “Sponsorship never materialized for Ali, however, as it did for his European companions. He doesn’t question why, not out loud. Back in Sadpara, he says he has too much to occupy him: wheat to thresh, potatoes to dig, cattle to feed, walls to mend, roofs to patch and children to educate.”

The two red stars indicate the bivy locations and the smaller red dots mark the approximate line of Ruth Gorge Grinder (AI6+ M7, 5,000') on the east face of Mt. Dickey. [Photo] Alan Rousseau

Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell summit Dickey’s east face via “Ruth Gorge Grinder”

by Alan Rousseau

Alan Rousseau wrote the following story about a new route he completed on the east face of Mt. Dickey in Alaska with Jackson Marvell on April 3-5. Their new line follows a prominent corner system between Blood from the Stone and the Wine Bottle; they named it Ruth Gorge Grinder (AI6+ M7, 5,000′).

Cole Lawrence sends Pitch 6 (5.13a) on the first free ascent of Super Ultra Mega, an eight-pitch route on an unnamed buttress in Montana's Bitterroot Range. [Photo] Winter Ramos

Montana climbers tap potential of Bitterroots with “Super Ultra Mega” (5.13a, 8 pitches)

by Alpinist Magazine

Missoula climber Cole Lawrence and several partners completed a vision that began a decade ago when he established and redpointed Super Ultra Mega (5.13a, 8 pitches) on an unnamed, unknown buttress in Montana’s Bitterroot Range last September. The climbers say this is just the beginning of the potential for new, big free routes and that it’s time to put the area on the map.

Sergey Nilov. [Photo] Dmitry Golovchenko

“Unfinished Sympathy”: An interview with Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov about their new line on Kumbhakarna’s east face

by Eliza Kubarska

Eliza Kubarska is an alpinist and filmmaker who accompanied Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov to base camp during their recent ascent of a new line on the east face of Kumbhakarna (Jannu, 7710m) on March 16 to April 2. The men completed their 18-day round-trip on 14 days of rations and without completing a formal acclimatization period beforehand. Kurbarska conducted the following interview with them as they made their way back to Kathmandu, Nepal, on April 6.

The east face of Howse Peak, Icefields Parkway, Alberta, Canada. [Photo] Courtesy of Parks Canada

Auer, Lama, Roskelley summited Howse Peak before avalanche killed them on the descent

by Derek Franz

Parks Canada reported in a press conference today that Jess Roskelley, David Lama and Hansjorg Auer started climbing M-16 (VI WI7+ A2) on Howse Peak early Tuesday morning, April 16, summited around 12:30 p.m. and were likely killed in an avalanche while descending the east face of the mountain that day. The bodies were found in a field of avalanche debris on Sunday, April 21.

David Lama during acclimatizing on Fox Peak, October 2018. [Photo] David Lama/Red Bull Content Pool

Auer, Lama and Roskelley killed in avalanche on Canada’s Howse Peak

by Derek Franz

Hansjorg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley are presumed to have been killed in an avalanche while attempting M-16 (VI WI7+ A2) on Howse Peak, located on the Icefields Parkway in Alberta, Canada. Parks Canada officials confirmed in a press conference today that a helicopter search was conducted and crews observed signs of multiple avalanches in the area and that “there was strong evidence that the climbing party was involved and that the victims were deceased.”

Four recipients selected for 2019 Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award

by Derek Franz

Four recipients have been selected for the second annual Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award. Cassady Bindrup, Gabe Dirksen, Talley Kayser and Max Neale are each receiving $1,000 for solo trips, respectively, to the Scottish Highlands, the Black Hills of South Dakota, the Sierra Nevada Range and Baranof Island, Alaska. Last year, a total of $4,000 was distributed among three recipients.

Alpinist Community Project Flashback: Mike Libecki

by Mike Libecki

From March 19-25, 2017, Mike Libecki shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about an expedition to Greenland in 2015 to climb a remote, unclimbed peak, which he’d named the Polar Bear Fang after finding it on maps and reconnoitering the approach by boat on different trips through the years. He had tried to reach the Fang–which he is certain is in a never-before visited area–on several occasions, but he had been shut down nearly every time because of sea ice, and once because there were too many polar bears to get off the boat. On this last attempt, he’d planned to go alone, but that quickly changed.

Amanda Tarr Forrest tops out on Hallucinogen Wall. [Photo] Courtesy Amanda Tarr Forrest

1997: Homecoming

by Amanda Tarr Forrest

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 65, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store, Amanda Tarr Forrest recounts an aid-solo ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall on the North Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in 1997.

The East Face of Jannu/Kumbhakarna. The actual route is shown in red, while the intended route is shown in orange. [Photo] Courtesy of Marcin Tomaszewski

Two Russian alpinists complete a new line on the east wall of Jannu (7710m)

by Anna Callaghan

Two Russian alpinists, Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golovchenko, spent nearly three weeks attempting a new route in alpine-style up the unclimbed east face of Nepal’s Jannu/Kumbhakarna.

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