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Peter and Alexandra Lev, City of Rocks, 1990. [Photo] Lev family collection

To Father from Daughter

In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 64, Alexandra Lev delves into the past of her father who was already a highly accomplished mountaineer by the time she was born. She writes, “I’d meet climbers and skiers who would say to me with excitement, ‘Your dad is Peter Lev?’ They called him a legend. To me, he was just my dad. I was aware that he’d gone on some expeditions in the Himalaya and that he’d skied extensively in Canada, but I knew none of the details.” Now a grown woman, Alexandra Lev rediscovers her roots with new eyes and appreciation.

Sergey Glazunov on the final pitch that he climbed on the North Ridge of Latok I. He was reaching for freedom; his mode of life was unsophisticated, Glazunov's wife, Nina, wrote to Alpinist. [Photo] Alexander Gukov

Latok I: Impossible Is Not Forever

In this story that first appeared in Alpinist 64, Alexander Gukov shares his experience of surviving alone for a week at 6200 meters on Latok I (7145m) after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death on the descent with most of their equipment. Gukov was ultimately rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation flown by Pakistani pilots Major Qazi Muhammad Mazhar-ud-Din, Major Abid Rafique, Lieutenant Colonel Muhammad Anjum Rafique and Major Fakhar-e-Abbas. Prior to the accident, Gukov and Glazunov reached a historic high point on the legendary North Ridge, which has thwarted the previous four decades of attempts.

[Photo] Sergey Glazunov collection

Alpinist Community Project Flashback: Nina Glazunov-Neverov

From October 1-6, 2018, Nina Glazunov-Neverov shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about the life of her husband Sergey Glazunov, who reached a historic highpoint with Alexander Gukov on the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m) in Pakistan. During their descent, on July 25, Sergey Glazunov fell to his death. He was only 26 years old. Gukov was subsequently stranded for a week at 6200 meters before he was rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation. Nina’s stories and photos from the Alpinist Community Project can now be viewed at Alpinist.com.

Keita Kurakami (left) and Connor Herson after their respective free ascents of the Nose (VI 5.14a, 2,900') of El Capitan. [Photos] Keita Kurakami collection/Jim Herson

Keita Kurakami frees El Capitan’s Nose as a rope-solo and 15-year-old Connor Herson becomes the youngest to free the iconic wall

Two historic free ascents happened within the last several days on the Nose (VI 5.14a, 2,900′) of El Capitan: Keita Kurakami free climbed the route as a rope-solo in a single push from the ground on November 14-18, and 15-year-old Connor Herson free climbed it in a three-day push with his dad belaying and cleaning every pitch, topping out on November 19 after three days of climbing.

Chip Chace on Invisible Wall (IV 5.12a, 500'), Longs Peak. [Photo] Roger Briggs

A letter to Chip Chace (1958-2018): “Excuse Me While I Liquid Sky”

Chip Chace was one of the most well-rounded climbers of his generation and was known to keep many of his exploits quietly to himself. He was also a highly respected practitioner of Chinese medicine. Born on September 17, 1958, he died of pancreatic cancer on November 3 at age 60. He is survived by his wife and climbing partner of 30 years, Monika. Mike Schlauch wrote the following letter in remembrance of his friend.

Derek Franz gets his bearings using the SPOT X 2-Way Satellite Messenger in Colorado's Flat Tops Wilderness in late October 2018. [Photo] Mandi Franz

SPOT X 2-Way Satellite Messenger: A worthy tool for explorers and risk-takers

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz took the SPOT X 2-Way Satellite Messenger into the mountains and desert to test its capabilities. He appreciated the device’s unlimited two-way messaging and navigational tools, not to mention the potential to send an SOS signal if he needed a rescue, but he reports that there is room for improvement. Three stars.

Madaleine Sorkin climbs by headlamp on Scenic Cruise in the Black Canyon on October 29. [Photo] Henna Taylor

Update: Scientists study loose flake in Black Canyon while Sorkin and Harlan climb for the Grief Fund

Madaleine Sorkin and Mary Harlan raised awareness for the Climbing Grief Fund by climbing two routes in the Black Canyon in a day on October 29. Their intentions to climb a third route were thwarted by rain. In May, a loose flake had resulted in a climbing closure that ended their earlier plans for a “24 Hours into the Black” linkup. Since then, the National Park Service has been studying the flake on South Chasm View Wall, and results are pending for December at the earliest. The flake is currently estimated to have a volume of 3,800 tons, which rivals the massive rockfalls that happened on El Capitan last year.