Metolius Master Cam: Sleek and Sexy
While there is a cam or two on the market that has a wider expansion range and can handle shallower cracks, the Master Cam is a worthy competitor and an expertly manufactured piece of pro.
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Mountain Standards
Mountain Hardwear Phantom 32: Packs Like A Peanut
Weighing just 1 pound, 7 ounces, this down-filled sack has no frills. No Gore-Tex or other waterproof coatings to repel moisture and no extra, hidden pockets for your snicker bars. It’s just a simple pairing of paper-thin nylon and 800-fill down.
Five Ten Grandstone Rock Shoes: Oldies, But Goodies
The generous coating of sticky rubber and a roomy toe box make the Grandstones perfect for chimneys and offwidths, but they flail on smaller cracks that require a sleeker profile.
Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons: A Beautifully Crafted Hack-Job
Even though stainless steel isn’t the ultralight miracle metal that one might believe, Black Diamond’s design and construction alone make the newest Cyborg one of the best tools available for hard winter climbing.
Prana Tangra Pant: Fashionably Dysfunctional
After several months of abuse, capped off with a thrutchy ascent of Red Rock’s Epinephrine, I was amazed to find Prana’s Tangra pants still looking new. However, when it came to everyday use, the pants are clearly designed for fashion over function.
Petzl Sum’tec Ice Axe: For The Weight-Conscious Climber
While the axe is fairly light, it is the weight distribution that really impresses me. With a curved aluminum shaft and a stainless steel head, this tool feels solid in the hand and swings like champ.
Marmot Helium MemBrain Sleeping Bag: Old Faithful
In a seven-month period I logged 100-plus days in the Helium in a wide variety of situations: spring snow storms on Mt. Rainier, trekking in India, bivouacs in the North Cascades and more than a few nights in the guide lounge and my VW van. Thinking back on all those trips I can’t recall a single instance where the Helium let me down in any way.
Petzl Selena Harness: Women-Specific, but Lacking Function
I thought the flashy pink (and I mean pink) color of the Selena was a cover-up for a disappointing lack of women-specific features. When I actually put the harness to the test, I was pleased to find that the design is thoughtfully tailored for the smaller, curvier climber. However, ladies who plan to climb more than just single-pitch sport will be frustrated by the Selena’s other design features on long trad climbs.
Scarpa Force Rock Shoe: Light and Comfortable, Basically
Those in search of bondage slippers that match a sporty banana hammock to wear while working “the proj” in Thailand will be disappointed. The Force are a comfy and reliable factory basic, but that’s what I like about them.
Black Diamond First Shot: Cadillac of V-Thread Tools
When it comes to V-thread tools Black Diamond’s First Shot is the most advanced. It is the first V-threader that cannot be replaced with a pocket knife and a piece of wire. And the only tool with a guidance system for quick and easy V-thread creation.