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Sam Hennesse. [Photo] Seth Timpano

American Alpine Club announces three Cutting Edge Grant recipients

Sam Hennessey, Chantel Astorga and Chris Wright are all receiving American Alpine Club Cutting Edge Grants this year. Hennessey plans to attempt the north face of Chamlang (ca. 7300m) in the Eastern Himalaya of Nepal with Rob Smith, Seth Timpano and Michael Gardner; Astorga will try Pumari Chhish South (7350m) in Pakistan’s Hispar Karakoram with Anne Gilbert Chase; and Wright is aiming for Link Sar (7041m) in the Eastern Karakoram, Pakistan, with Graham Zimmerman, Mark Richey and Steve Swenson.

American Alpine Club 2019 climbing awards

American Alpine Club announces 2019 award recipients

The American Alpine Club recently announced the award recipients who will be honored at the club’s annual benefit dinner on March 9 in San Francisco, California. The honorees are Kelly Cordes, Jim Donini, Brette Harrington, Tom Hornbein, Jeremy Jones, Michael Kennedy and Kate Rutherford. Dennis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Jaroslaw Botor and Piotrek Tomala are also being recognized for their rescue of Elizabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat last January. Colin Haley is the keynote speaker.

Jess Roskelley leads through loose blocks on Day 2 during the first ascent of Canmore Wedding Party (AI5 M7, 2,625') on A Peak in Montana's Cabinet Mountains. [Photo] Scott Coldiron

No bull: Too tired to see right after a first ascent in Montana’s Cabinet Range

Jess Roskelley wrote the following story about a new route he climbed with Scott Coldiron on A Peak in Montana’s Cabinet Mountains on November 18-21. They named their route Canmore Wedding Party (AI5 M7, 2,625′). Coldiron, a veteran of the Gulf War, wrote an On Belay story for Alpinist 64 about returning to the Cabinet Range after a long hiatus to pursue his dreams of finding new ice and alpine routes.

Keita Kurakami (left) and Connor Herson after their respective free ascents of the Nose (VI 5.14a, 2,900') of El Capitan. [Photos] Keita Kurakami collection/Jim Herson

Keita Kurakami frees El Capitan’s Nose as a rope-solo and 15-year-old Connor Herson becomes the youngest to free the iconic wall

Two historic free ascents happened within the last several days on the Nose (VI 5.14a, 2,900′) of El Capitan: Keita Kurakami free climbed the route as a rope-solo in a single push from the ground on November 14-18, and 15-year-old Connor Herson free climbed it in a three-day push with his dad belaying and cleaning every pitch, topping out on November 19 after three days of climbing.

Chip Chace on Invisible Wall (IV 5.12a, 500'), Longs Peak. [Photo] Roger Briggs

A letter to Chip Chace (1958-2018): “Excuse Me While I Liquid Sky”

Chip Chace was one of the most well-rounded climbers of his generation and was known to keep many of his exploits quietly to himself. He was also a highly respected practitioner of Chinese medicine. Born on September 17, 1958, he died of pancreatic cancer on November 3 at age 60. He is survived by his wife and climbing partner of 30 years, Monika. Mike Schlauch wrote the following letter in remembrance of his friend.