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Elizabeth Hawley. [Photo] Courtesy of the Michael and Meg Leonard collection

Elizabeth Hawley Remembered

Bernadette McDonald recounts the life of Elizabeth Hawley, who died January 26, 2018. Hawley was a prolific and esteemed journalist who lived in Kathmandu, Nepal, and documented Himalayan mountaineering from 1959 until 2015. McDonald, who authored a biography about Hawley, describes the 94-year-old as “a feminist before her time, a pillar of society in Kathmandu, an icon in the mountaineering community, a fiercely independent woman, and a dear friend to many.”

The 2018 recipients of the American Alpine Club Climbing Awards

American Alpine Club announces 2018 Climbing Awards, Annual Benefit Dinner

The American Alpine Club has announced the recipients of its 2018 Climbing Awards, given annually to distinguish individuals for their service, leadership and accomplishments. This year’s honorees include John Roskelley, Alex Honnold, Ellen Lapham, Margo Hayes and Sally Jewell, who will be presented with their awards at the AAC’s Annual Benefit Dinner on February 24 in Boston, Massachusetts.

An overview of Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva's attempt at a route up Rungofarka's north face (center), their successful route up the north ridge (left), which they dubbed The T and A Show (VI M6 WI4+, 1200m), and their descent route (right). [Photo] Alan Rousseau

Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau establish The T&A Show on Rungofarka

From September 30 to October 4, Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau completed a long and technical new route on the north ridge of Rungofarka (6495m), a peak in the Zanskar Range that the Indian Mountaineering Foundation recently opened for permits. They named the route with a play on their names, The T&A Show (VI M6 WI4+, ca. 50 pitches, 1200m). Rousseau documents their experience in this trip report.

Barbara Zangerl on Pitch 22, Magic Mushroom (5.14a). [Photo] Francois Lebeau

Larcher and Zangerl make a rare free ascent of El Cap’s Magic Mushroom (5.14a) at the end of another busy season for the Big Stone

It’s been another productive season for climbers on El Capitan: Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl made a rare free ascent of Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a, 2,900′) on El Capitan, topping out on December 10 after an 11-day push from the ground. Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds set a new speed record on the Nose on October 21, and Keita Kurakami redpointed all individual pitches on the Nose (5.14a) on November 15 but plans to return and climb it in better style.

Looking east from the summit of North Six Shooter in Indian Creek, Utah, provides a glimpse of the 1.35-million-acre Bears Ears National Monument. South Six Shooter is in the foreground and Bridger Jack Butte and pinnacles are in the middle ground. The Abajo Mountains are in the background to the right and the La Sal Mountains are just out of view to the left. Canyonlands National Park lies behind the photographer, just a few miles to the west. [Photo] Derek Franz

Trump heading to Utah and is expected to reduce size of two national monuments

President Donald Trump is scheduled to visit Salt Lake City, Utah, on Monday, Dec. 4, and he is expected to announce plans to slash the size of Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments. The Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance is organizing rallies at the Utah capitol on Saturday, Dec. 2, and Monday, Dec. 4, to oppose the reductions.

The south face of Nuptse with the new route marked by the thin red line. [Photo] Courtesy of Helias Millerioux, Benjamin Guigonnet, Frederic Degoulet

French team completes new route on Nuptse’s south face

On October 14-21, Helias Millerioux, Benjamin Guigonnet, Frederic Degoulet completed a risky new route on Nuptse’s south face in mostly alpine style, fixing only two short sections. The overall technical difficulty of their as-yet-unnamed route weighs in at M5+ WI6, 65° snow, 2342 meters. For Millerioux and Guigonnet, this was their second attempt on this route after trying it in 2015.