NewsWire

The Piolets d’Or jury is giving awards to two climbing teams this year for the 2016 first ascents on North Buttress of Nyainqentangla South East in Tibet by Nick Bullock and Paul Ramsden of Britain, and the North Buttress of Thalay Sagar in the Indian Gangotri by Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov of Russia. Honorable mentions go to the Korean team of Cho Seok-mun, Kim Chang-ho, and Park Joung-yong, and Americans Colin Haley and Alex Honnold. Jeff Lowe is receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award.

Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher made the first ascents of Switzerland’s Gondo Crack (5.14b R) in early April. The 17-meter line was a 15-year project that thwarted more than one talented suitor, including British trad ace Tom Randall.

April is likely to be a pivotal time for the future of Bears Ears National Monument in Utah. U.S. Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke is poised to visit the state soon and make a recommendation to President Donald Trump on whether to rescind the monument as Utah lawmakers are requesting. Meanwhile the Access Fund reports an uptick in political participation that seems to be having an effect on leaders in Washington. Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz considers the context in which the monument was created.

Belgian climbers Nico Favresse, Siebe Vanhee and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll managed to squeak out a 19-day free ascent of the 1200-meter route El Regalo de Mwono–originally VI 5.10 A4 when first climbed in 1991-’92, now 5.13b–on the Central Tower in the Torres del Paine, Patagonia. They had 15 days of rations. The climb is one of the hardest big wall free climbs in the Great Ranges.

Royal Robbins (1935-2017) is remembered as a courageous visionary, from climbing the walls of Yosemite and the Alps, to kayaking raging rivers, and navigating his business, he embodied many lives in the span of his time on Earth and inspired generations, as evidenced by the numerous stories shared by his friends and admirers. Climbing shaped Robbins, and in turn he shaped climbing.

The American Alpine Club recently announced that it is collaborating with the Colorado Mountain Club, the Mazamas and The Mountaineers “to promote improvements in climbing safety, coordinate stewardship and advocate for climbing areas in the United States.”

Three Italians completed a route up the middle of Cerro Murallon’s east face in early February that was first attempted in 1999. They named their route after a book written by an Argentinian Air Force captain–El Valor del Miedo (M6 A2 90+ degrees, 1000m), which translates as “The Value of Fear.” The 2017 Patagonia summer climbing season has seen a return of storm cycles and unpredictable conditions that are more typical of historical weather patterns for the area. The Italians’ East Face route would normally be an unlikely choice for summer.

Jeff Lowe will receive the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award in April.

Clark County Commissioners allow a 2011 concept plan to proceed for a 5,000-home development on Blue Diamond Hill near Red Rock National Conservation Area, which is a worldwide attraction for climbers. Several more steps remain for final approval and more court hearings are anticipated.

Polish climber Marek Raganowicz spent 16 days soloing Suser gjennom Harryland (VI 5.10b A3, 650m) on Norway’s Troll Wall from January 11 to 26. The route finishes far short of the true summit, but the ascent is one of the best solo efforts on the Troll in winter so far.