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IF I WERE BAT-HOOKING UP SOME NASTY A5…

Stirring the pot of ethical debates, Chris Kalous–who apparently has some sort of climbing credentials, though I know not where–gives a nice seven minute speech about the inaccurate and self aggrandizing nature of aid ratings.

Maxim Apogee 9.1 70m Rope: Stands Up to Abuse

I had initially stayed away from using longer ropes due to their weight and bulk. The Apogee, at 9.1mm, dispenses with this concern, but its slim profile gave me doubts about its durability. After significant testing on summer alpine rock routes in the Tetons, alpine climbing in the Bugaboos and the establishment of new multi-pitch sport and trad routes at Rock Springs Buttress in Jackson Hole, my doubts about the rope’s durability were firmly laid to rest.

Misery

Rich Purnell swings between rock and ice on Misery (M8+/9), the testpiece at the Belfry in Vail, Colorado.

Everest Update: From the Olympics to Yak Difficulties

I am just back from my follow up visit to China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) in Lhasa, Tibet. On our agenda was the following issues: the impact of the Olympic expedition on other climbers, theft and misconduct on the mountain and the difficulty of managing the yaks.