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SMOKING ON EVEREST IS COOL, OR WAS IN THE 1920S

Captain GJ Finch, who took part in the Mount Everest expedition, speaking at a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, London, last evening on the equipment for high climbing, testified to the comfort of cigarette smoking at very high altitude. He said that he and two other members of the expedition camped at 25,000ft for over 26 hours and all that time they used no oxygen.

Obsession and Ingenuity, Part I: Michigan

The three months (if you’re lucky) of joy for most Midwestern ice climbers are filled with long, sleepless weekend drives to Ontario, Northern Minnesota and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula… But what about lunch breaks?

THE “RUSSIAN WAY” IS AN AGENT OF DEATH TO MODERN ALPINISM

K2’s mighty West Face is one of the greatest big mountain walls in the world and ripe for a beautiful alpine style ascent. This past summer a large, 18-person team of Russians converged upon Concordia intent on forcing a direct line up the steepest part of the face by any means necessary. Like they have done before on Jannu, they sieged the mountain, fixing ropes from base camp to nearly the summit, establishing seven camps enroute!

Alpinist Seeks Film Festival Producer

Alpinist seeks a producer for The Alpinist Film Festival.
Dynamic and challenging part-time position helps plan, organize and execute annual film festival for Alpinist Magazine. Applicant must be self-reliant, resourceful, organized, experienced in event planning and proficient in budgets and fundraising.

CHOMOLHARI FIRST ASCENT HISTORY REVISITED

I have not yet had time to read through Alpinist 21 properly, but I noticed a picture caption on Page 82 that gives the impression that the first ascent of Chomolhari (7326m) was in 1996. The record of ascents of Chomolhari is a bit confused, and few people are aware of the significance of the epic first ascent–alpine style–by F. Spencer Chapman and team in 1937.