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Franconia Notch: The Black Dike

In 1971, a 19-year-old John Bouchard, climbed the 400-foot Black Dike up Cannon Cliff, solo, despite having a stuck rope, one mitten and a broken pick. In his time, a WI4+ was unheard of, and only four years earlier, the hardest “stepless ascent” was Mount Washington’s Pinnacle Gully at WI3+.

Petzl Nomic: My Deep Affection (Affliction?)

Every climber has a different torso length, forearm length, wrist flexibility, posture and middle school softball trauma; everyone’s swing is different. Consequently, the swing of this tool will feel good to some and not to others. The Nomic climbs beautifully for me. It is one of the very few pieces of equipment that actually increases my ability level dramatically, rather than simply making me look the part.

Regulators, Episode 9: Chasing the Unknown

“Chasing the Unknown,” Episode 9 of the Regulators, takes you from the start of the ice season this year in October as my partners and I started hitting the hills in search of ice. It seems like every year we start searching earlier, yet we still expect to find ice somewhere.