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What the New NPS Wilderness Climbing Policy Means for Climbers and Bolting

For decades, the future legality of fixed anchor use in Wilderness areas remained uncertain. Because land management agencies had no national guidance to assist local planners and managers, each local park and national forest was left to interpret the Wilderness Act–as it pertains to fixed anchors–on its own, and with wildly varying results. Last month the NPS issued Director’s Order #41 to finally clarify the agency’s management policy in Wilderness areas. Jason Keith of the Access Fund tells us what is means for climbers.

Desperate Country: Seven Days on the Fence

Over seven days, Jens Holsten and Chad Kellogg made their way across the toothy ridgeline of the Northern and Southern Pickets in the Cascade Mountains. The ten-mile linkup would be one of the longest routes in the Lower 48–had they completed it.

2013 Everest Report: A Curse, a Fight and the Aftermath

Modern Sherpa climbers have achieved some respect within the commercial guiding community–their status the result of evolving power structures through decades of Himalayan mountaineering. But as we look into the background of the April 27, 2013 outburst in Camp II on the south side of Everest, one discrepancy becomes apparent: the credit and wages Sherpas receive for their work, as compared to that of their Western colleagues, has not caught up to the ongoing risks Sherpas face or to their growing responsibilities.

Ulvetanna: The Last Great Climb

Filmmaker Alastair Lee gives you a preview of his 2013 film “The Last Great Climb” Featuring Leo Houlding, Sean “Stanley” Leary, Jason Pickles and Chris Rabone during their first ascent of the Northeast Ridge of Ulvetanna (5.12 A2, 1750m) in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Dreams become reality for this group of climbers as they ascend…