Alpinist’s Digital Editor met with Stevie Haston at the 2015 Winter Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City to talk about his love for the Utah desert. As a follow-up to the interview, we’re republishing Haston’s account of completing the Titan’s first free ascent, via the 1,000-foot Sundevil Chimney (5.13a).
Alpinist’s intern from last summer, Brad Rassler, goes on a quest to learn about fallen mountaineer, mathematician and pack designer Don Jensen.
Alpinists know that a tool capable of performing well in a variety of mediums and serving a variety of tasks is, indeed, quite pleasing. All the time. The Petzl Sum’Tec tools go a long way toward accomplishing that.
Rolando Garibotti, with help from Kelly Cordes, uncovers new evidence about where Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger were during Maestri’s claimed ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959. “Maestri’s photo of Toni Egger was in fact taken on the west face of Perfil de Indio, a small tower north of the Col Standhardt, between Agujas Standhardt and Aguja Bifida, on the west side of the massif, the opposite side that they claim to have been climbing on,” writes Garibotti. Read Garibotti’s story here: [Photo] Rolando Garibotti
Alpinist’s Digital Editor Chris Van Leuven visits with Kevin Jorgeson at the Outdoor Retailer show on January 22 to discuss the last day of the Dawn Wall, Day 19, Jorgeson’s battle with the 5.12 flare on Pitch 29, and the final moments before reaching the top.
From January 18 through 22, Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc made the first ascent of what had been dubbed the “Reverse Torre Traverse,” a south-to-north enchainment of Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Aguja Standhardt in Argentine Patagonia. They called their route, first attempted by Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg in early 2012—and which Haley had also attempted that same year with Jon Walsh only to be stormed off—La Travesía del Oso Buda.
Alpinist sits down at the Outdoor Retailer trade show to interview Stevie Haston, the UK powerhouse known for his bold, standard-setting climbs across all genres, hair-raising desert-tower free ascents on rock barely more solid than mud and his blunt-spoken manner. Now living on the Maltese island of Gozo, Haston still whips out 1,500-pull-up training days to keep his edge.
After 90 days spread over four attempts, Lonnie Dupre, from Grand Marais, Minnesota, became the first person to make a January solo of Denali when he completed his ascent of the West Buttress.
I’m one of those guys who have a different pair of shoes for every situation and will debate my options to an embarrassing extent. Over a year ago, while searching for a good all-around pair of approach shoes, I tried a pair of Salewa Wildfires.
Six French climbers make the first traverse of the Seven Sisters in the Sierra du Fief, Wiencke Island, Antarctica over three days in late November 2014, encountering committing terrain and steep, technical snow and ice hard above the Southern Ocean.
