Chris Van Leuven wears hoodies often and has tested his share of them. His latest review awards the Ortovox Merino Fleece Light Hoody four stars. Van Leuven reports that the Ortovox is lighter than many other tops, but in terms of loft and warmth it’s similar to heavier ones.
Approximately 50 climbers lobbied Capitol Hill in Washington, DC, as part of the Access Fund and American Alpine Club’s Climb the Hill event on May 11. Those in attendance included Quinn Brett, Tommy Caldwell, Peter Croft, Sasha DiGiulian, Caroline Gleich, Alex Honnold, Shelma Jun, Kai Lightner, Mikhail Martin and Libby Sauter. Virginia Senator and former Vice Presidential Candidate Tim Kaine gave an impromptu speech at the end of the day thanking the climbers for sharing their voices in support of public lands. “This was a watershed moment for climbers in terms of our political clout,” said Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson.
US Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke’s visit to Utah is underway as he begins his review of national monuments following President Donald Trump’s recent executive order. Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments are his first tours on a list that now includes 28 monuments.
Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz tested the NW Alpine Eyebright ultralight shell jacket, one of the lightest and most durable in its class because of its Dyneema construction. The jacket was structurally and functionally sound but it left some things to be desired when considering the hefty price tag.
Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley stepped off the plane on Alaska’s Tokositna Glacier April 18 and immediately committed to Mt. Huntington’s South Ridge, which had never been climbed in its entirety until they summited April 23. The ridge is long and extremely committing because of hazards that make retreat a dangerous option. A storm pinned the climbers on the summit without food until April 25, when they were able to descend the West Face Couloir.
Tickets are now available for the American Alpine Club’s second annual Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration in Denver on June 3. The event will honor several climbers for their contributions to social and environmental causes around the world. In addition, a Cutting Edge Award will recognize an ascent performed in upstanding style. Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman are receiving the Cutting Edge Award while David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid, Sean and Timmy O’Neill, Doug Walker and Sean Patrick are being inducted into Hall of Mountaineering Excellence.
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck was found dead on April 30 near Camp 2 on Mt. Everest (8848m) after he apparently fell while climbing 7861-meter Nuptse to acclimatize for a linkup of Everest’s Hornbein Route with Lohtse (8516m).
An ice climbing boot that handles skis as well? Jess Roskelley tested the Arc’teryx Procline Carbon Lite boots and enjoyed their versatility for approaching and climbing routes in the snowy backcountry. He used the boots on mixed pitches and WI 6, and cruised out in full control of his skis on the way down–no more sliding into tree wells with soft boots mounted into Silveretta bindings! He awarded the Proclines four stars.
Trump signs executive order to review Bears Ears and all national monuments designated in the last 21 years
President Donald Trump signed an executive order to review Bears Ears and all national monuments designated in the last 21 years. The order was issued with the promise of “no predetermined outcome,” but his accompanying remarks suggest that his administration expects to make changes to the monuments’ status. The Access Fund, Friends of Cedar Mesa and Utah Dine Bikeyah respond to the threat with statements in support of established monuments.
Last March Americans Whitney Clark, Jon Griffin and Tad McCrea ventured into a notoriously wet and seldom-visited coastal region of South America–Patagonia’s Cordillera Sarmiento–in hopes of climbing a peak called Alas de Angel Sur. The approach to their main objective proved too difficult to decipher in the time and weather that they had, but the team still managed to climb another peak by a route they dubbed Estoy Verde (M6 200m). Clark recounts their rain-soaked adventure.