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Obsession and Ingenuity, Part I: Michigan
The three months (if you’re lucky) of joy for most Midwestern ice climbers are filled with long, sleepless weekend drives to Ontario, Northern Minnesota and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula… But what about lunch breaks?
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THE “RUSSIAN WAY” IS AN AGENT OF DEATH TO MODERN ALPINISM
K2’s mighty West Face is one of the greatest big mountain walls in the world and ripe for a beautiful alpine style ascent. This past summer a large, 18-person team of Russians converged upon Concordia intent on forcing a direct line up the steepest part of the face by any means necessary. Like they have…
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Alpinist Seeks Film Festival Producer
Alpinist seeks a producer for The Alpinist Film Festival. Dynamic and challenging part-time position helps plan, organize and execute annual film festival for Alpinist Magazine. Applicant must be self-reliant, resourceful, organized, experienced in event planning and proficient in budgets and fundraising.
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CHOMOLHARI FIRST ASCENT HISTORY REVISITED
I have not yet had time to read through Alpinist 21 properly, but I noticed a picture caption on Page 82 that gives the impression that the first ascent of Chomolhari (7326m) was in 1996. The record of ascents of Chomolhari is a bit confused, and few people are aware of the significance of the…
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SCOTS BRING INDOOR ICE CLIMBING TO VERMONT
So, Mayor Kiss, of Burlington, Vermont, USA, decides that the 86 percent of tax payers that voted to change the empty, decommissioned power plant into a park were wrong. Mayor Kiss decides that turning the building and the grounds it stands on into a commercial facility is more financially intelligent for the city. Why is…
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Exclusive: Patagonian Psyche
Andy Kirkpatrick and Ian Parnell get stormed off Patagonia’s Cerro Standhardt. This clip from PSYCHE is available only on Alpinist TV.
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An Answer Regarding Mt. Mahindra
In the October 1 NewsWire there was some discussion about Mt. Mahindra. Number three above is the ascent line that was made by Kopold and Stefansky in 2003, which obviously shows that they did not make it to the top of the peak. This picture was published in the magazine Jamesak.
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New Iapetus Photos
Here is the other side of Iapetus, one of Saturn’s moons. If you go to saturn.jpl.nasa.gov and ciclops.org, you can check out hi-res images (so you can zoom in to the point where you can route find!) and get more information.
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Rab Power Stretch Grip Glove: Almost Too Sticky!
This lightweight glove packs a punch for as light as it is and as well as it climbs. Had the temperatures been more normal in the Tetons this season, I probably would have squeezed more milage out of the thin Rab gloves, but global warming had most of us stripped to light sleeves–and certainly gloveless–many…
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Egos and Word Counts
Having just read Marko Prezelj’s article, “Based on a True Story” in Alpinist 21, I have to say that I am disappointed. While few people would deny that Prezelj is one of the most accomplished climbers in the world today, and that he had a mind-boggling year in 2006, I put down the issue with…
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Canada’s Other Winter Climbing Destination: Ontario
Welcome to Canada’s best-kept chilly secret, where “the constant northwest winds result in some of the wildest ice formations imaginable: 10-foot umbrellas and fragile curtains waiting to kill anyone foolish enough to try climbing.”
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CLIMATE CHANGE CAUSES INCREASED CLIMBING DANGER
Though slightly sensationalized, as most news tends to be, this article does point out something that seems to dovetail rather well with yesterday’s Mont Blanc Thermometer Blog. Climate change, whatever the causes, is becoming more and more obvious in relation to our favorite pastimes.
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MONT BLANC THERMOMETER
The Mont Blanc Massif’s enormous expanse, divided into three separate nations, is completely free of protected status. Pro Mont Blanc aims to change that. But first they need to find out what’s going on in the region. Thus, they’re created the The Mont Blanc Thermometer…
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