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#alpinistcommunityproject 2016
This week, we’re sharing an assortment of social media posts from the Alpinist Community Project in 2016. In this collection we’re resharing photos from Bryce Brown, James Rushforth, Michael Kennedy, Abhijeet Singh, Jeremy Joseph, Jenny Abegg and Forest Woodward, Tamotsu Nakamura and Caroline Treadway.
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The Adventure Gap and Narratives of Inclusion: James Edward Mills talks about why the face of outdoor adventure must change
Brad Rassler interviews author James Edward Mills about current events and the disparity of opportunities for minorities to try outdoor activities like climbing.
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Valandre Shocking Blue Neo Sleeping Bag: High-performance and complicated
Drew Thayer describes the Valandre Shocking Blue Neo Sleeping Bag as “the Cadillac” of cold-weather sleeping bags. But all the added features increase the weight and the price compared to other cold-weather bags. Four stars.
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Poetry Feature: Experiencing Ice
In this poetry feature, writer and adventurer Manasseh Franklin shares work from Experiencing Ice, a series of images and poems about glaciers and “vastness to ponder.”
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Beyond the Guide: White Mountains, New Hampshire
For years, Alan Cattabriga has roamed the White Mountains of New Hampshire, exploring the spaces between the contour lines of maps and creating long, arabesque-like enchainments of classic ice routes. Herein, a tale from one of the East Coast’s most imaginative wanderers.
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The Country of Winter: Nitassinan, Quebec
Pete Takeda ventures into some of the vast realms of ice, and the countries within countries of Nitassinan and northeastern Quebec.
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The CiloGear 30:30 backpack gets it done on alpine missions
Yosemite Search and Rescue member Josh Huckaby puts the CiloGear 30:30 backpack to the test and is stoked with the product. He plans to use it in Patagonia this January. Five stars!
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Nakamura unveils hidden mountains of southern Tibet
Eighty-two-year-old Japanese mountaineer Tamotsu “Tom” Nakamura has been exploring and documenting the seldom-visited regions of Tibet for the last 25 years. In this feature he shares photographs of southern Tibet’s “hidden” mountains.
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And the 2017 Mugs Stump Winners Are…
The 2017 Mugs Stump recipients aim to tackle: the East Face of Golgotha (Alaska); the West Face of Xanadu (Alaska); the North Face of Rungofarka and a prominent rock buttress on the nearby Northwest Face of Peak 5780 (India); the North Face of Barnaj II (India); and the world’s second highest unclimbed peak, Mucho Chhish…
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American Alpine Club to present five awards at its annual Benefit Dinner Feb. 25
The American Alpine Club opens registration for its Annual Benefit Dinner on February 25 in Seattle, Washington. Five people will receive awards. Conrad Anker is the keynote speaker.
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Russians win Golden Axe for Moveable Feast on Thalay Sagar
The golden trio of Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov score another Russian Golden Axe for their alpine-style first ascent of Moveable Feast (ED2 M7 WI5 5c A3, 1400m) on Thalay Sagar (6904m) last September.
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Freedom in the Hills
For decades, female alpinists have made extraordinary ascents from remote big walls to storm-swept peaks. In an article from Alpinist 52 (Winter 2015), Charlotte Austin explored some of the lingering barriers of the past and the growing potential for the future.
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Book Review: Simon McCartney’s ‘The Bond’
Rick Accomazzo reviews Simon McCartney’s book, The Bond. Published earlier this year, The Bond received the 2016 Banff Mountain and Wilderness Literature Non-Fiction Award, as well as the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature.
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The Vision of Andrew Boyd
Drew Copeland considers how Andrew Boyd has quietly influenced the Squamish climbing scene in the last twenty years with his bold first free ascents and visionary lines.
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Public Lands and the Future of Advocacy: An Interview with Brady Robinson (Part I in an Interview Series)
On November 16, 2016, the Access Fund released a statement in response to the outcome of the U.S. presidential election, “What Will the Trump Administration Mean for Climbing?” We’ve since followed up with Brady Robinson, executive director of the Access Fund and chair of the Outdoor Alliance, to learn more about his thoughts on the…
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Tenaya Ra: A true ‘all-around performance shoe’
Mike Lewis finds that the Tenaya Ra has everything he looks for in a climbing shoe, including a great out-of-the-box fit that doesn’t require a break-in period. Five Stars!
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Buffalo Soldiers in the Cavalryman’s Paradise
Yosemite National Park Ranger Shelton Johnson explores “the pitch of the wild” for the Buffalo Soldiers on patrol in Yosemite at the turn of the twentieth century.
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The Shining Mountains
Popular books recount the early days of Canadian mountaineering as a story of epic discoveries. In this story from Alpinist 50, historians Zac Robinson and Stephen Slemon examine what often gets left out: the extent to which the “explorers” relied on the prior geographic knowledge of Indigenous guides.
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Updated DMM Dragon cams: Stable, easy to place and clean
Chris Van Leuven compares the new DMM Dragon cams to other brands and finds he likes to mix and match for optimal weight and size-runs, awarding them four stars out of five.
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Ines Papert and Luka Lindic establish new route on Kyzyl Asker
Ines Papert and Luka Lindic discover the best ice either of them have ever encountered so high on a mountain during the two-day ascent of their new route on Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Lost in China (ED WI5+ M6, 1200m).
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Jim Detterline touched many lives as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain Nat’l Park
Jim Detterline participated in more than 1,200 rescues in his long career as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park. He was well loved and famous for climbing Longs Peak (14,259’) a record 428 times. He died in a rope-soloing accident near his home in late October. More than 1,000 people attended the memorial…
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Zangerl and Larcher make the third free ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher recently made the third free ascent of Zodiac (VI 5.13d) on El Capitan after a 13-year period in which no one succeeded since the first and second free ascents were made in 2003.
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Adam Ondra Frees the Dawn Wall
Adam Ondra sets a new precedent on the second free ascent of El Capitan’s Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) by blazing up the route in fewer than eight days and leading every pitch.
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