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Lauret Savoy’s Trace: Exploring Landscapes of Exclusion and Inclusion in American History
Alpinist Editor-in-chief Katie Ives describes some of the reasons Lauret Savoy’s 2015 book, Trace: Memory, History, Race and the American Landscape has become deeply relevant today: “Much of prior mountain literature, all too often, has been solipsistic and exclusionary. More than ever, we need writers like Lauret Savoy, who can help us see our shared…
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Pete Whittaker rope solos El Cap’s Freerider all free in a day
Pete Whittaker rope solos El Capitan’s Freerider (VI 5.12d) all free in 20 hours, 6 minutes, becoming the first person to do it in a day.
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A Backyard Big Wall Expedition
A group of Idaho climbers venture into the Canadian wilderness to complete the first ascent of a route on Wall Tower (9,560′) that was abandoned by Fred Beckey Carl Dietrich and Bill Ruch. They called their line The White Tiger (VI 5.11 A3, 1,600′).
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The Glaciers Are Retreating: Southern Alps, New Zealand
In a story from Alpinist 38 (Spring 2012), Paul Hersey explores a landscape at the edge of loss on the fleeting ice fields of New Zealand’s Westland Tai Poutini National Park.
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#alpinistcommunityproject: Jenny Abegg and Forest Woodward
From November 6 to 12 Jenny Abegg and Forest Woodward shared work with the #alpinistcommunityproject. Abegg cut her teeth on granite splitters in the Pacific Northwest, and made her first trip to Indian Creek in the spring of 2012. Woodward, her partner-in-crime and man behind the lens for each photo in this series, has an…
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Junko Tabei, first woman to summit Everest, dies at 77
Junko Tabei was more than the first woman to summit the highest peak on Earth, she was a trailblazer for women in the mountains, a leader for the environment and a person who actively invested in her community all the way up until her death from cancer on October 20.
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La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX Boots: Lighter and more versatile than ever
Andrew Councell awards the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX boots four out of five stars for their lightness, warmth and versatility on rock and snow.
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Local Hero: Stephen Shobe
James Edward Mills writes about one of his climbing heroes, Stephen Shobe, a mountain guide and member of Expedition Denali, a group that continues to promote diversity in outdoor education.
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Seeking Space – The Climbing Life
An unexpected encounter on a hillside in New Mexico leads Jane Jackson to reconsider the environmental impacts of climbers and the conservation of public lands.
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2017 Mugs Stump Award Opens for Applications November 10
The 25th Annual Mugs Stump Award applications are due November 30 for the 2017 grant cycle.
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Local Hero: Hanniah Tariq
Vanessa Beucher writes about Pakistani activist Hanniah Tariq, founder of High Altitude Sustainability Pakistan, an organization dedicated to the well-being of expedition workers, their families and the mountain environment.
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Montane Hi Q Luxe Pro Pull On: Breathable enough to approach, warm enough to belay
Corey Buhay finds the Montane Hi Q Lux Pro Pull On jacket to be a versatile piece of equipment for staying warm and dry in the mountains. She awards it four stars out of five.
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Off Route and Out of Time – The Sharp End, Alpinist 56
Back in April 2016, Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc described his solo of the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson: “My thoughts had reached a depth and clarity that I had never before experienced. The magic was real…. I was deeply content that I had not carried a watch with me to keep time…. I felt more…
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An interview with Alex Megos about the cross-disciplines of sport vs. trad climbing
Climbing phenom Alex Megos considers himself a “sport climber,” but that self-designation didn’t stop him from racking up to flash The Path, a 5.14 R trad route in Canada. Chris Kalman asks Megos what he thinks about the emphasis climbers put on various definitions of ascent, such as bouldering, sport climbing and trad climbing.
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Edges of Maps: The Mountain Stories of Kyle Dempster
At the time of his disappearance on the Ogre II, Kyle Dempster was one of the most promising mountain storytellers of his generation. Alpinist editor-in-chief Katie Ives looks back at some of work, and wonders about the writer he might have become.
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Grivel Lambda HMS Twin Gate: Comforting If You’re Not Wearing Gloves
The Grivel Lambda HMS Twin Gate is an unusual auto-locking carabiner that can be clipped with one hand and provides extra security on critical protection points. Just don’t try to use it with gloves.
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The Dynafit Yotei GTX Jacket: The Ideal Jacket for Ski-Mountaineers and Beyond
Mike Lewis awards the Dynafit Yotei GTX Jacket five stars for its light weight, versatility and thoughtful design. There was but one tiny flaw…
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Metolius Ultralight Master Cams: Mostly Solid, Sometimes Wobbly
Chris Van Leuven takes the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams on a cragging tour from New York to Colorado, and awards them four out of five stars.
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