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Metrophobia: A Thirst for Adventure
Doing a first ascent on a remote big wall was not enough for a team of three Swiss and two French men, who opted to sea kayak 170 kilometers with all their provisions just to reach the climb.
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DMM Apex Ice Tool Review: Heavy-duty and Ready to Rumble
The DMM Apex ice tools hold up to abuse and work well in a variety of terrain. Vermont climbing guide Tim Farr awards them four stars out of five.
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The DMM Pivot: Innovation Worth the Effort
The DMM Pivot shines as a simple, all-around assisted-braking belay device.
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Mammut Wall Rider Helmet Review
“Smaller rocks inevitably rained down. Just as the barrage ceased, a small rock whacked me in the head…. On the hard shell of the helmet, where the rock had hit, was a small ding. No cracks, no mess, just one clean dimple.” Drew Thayer reviews the Mammut Wall Rider Helmet.
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Light, Low Profile and Hard to Break In: Arc’teryx Acrux AR Mountaineering Boots
Chris Van Leuven reviews the Arc’teryx Acrux AR Mountaineering Boots, crafted to be the “lowest volume weatherproof double boot ever made,” the company says.
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Adamson, Dempster Remembered for Love, Tenacity
Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson were at home in wild and remote mountains. But their sense of passion and commitment spread beyond the bold routes they climbed to the people with whom they shared their lives. On Alpinist.com, Derek Franz writes about the disappearance of the two men on the north face of the Ogre…
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In Memory of Kyle Dempster
On September 3, 2016, the search for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson, missing on the Ogre II in Pakistan, was called off. Here, a friend and climbing partner Scott Robertson writes a tribute to Kyle. We will be working on more stories about Kyle and Scott in the weeks ahead.
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Adidas Terrex Solo Approach Shoe 2016
YOSAR team member Josh Huckaby reviews the Adidas Terrex Solo approach shoes: “The Terrex Solos felt light on my feet, and have just enough support for extended carry outs down the dusty trails around Yosemite National Park.”
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Wind River Universe
Dick Dorworth reflects on the changes that the last forty-five years have brought to the Wind River Range: “On a clear day, the surface of Lonesome Lake reflects the sweeping silver walls of the Cirque of Towers, a glacier-polished mirror to the climber who cares (dares?) to gaze into it and to take those visions…
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Last Unclimbed Wind River
Eminent chronicler of the Wind River Mountains Joe Kelsey searches for the “last Unclimbed Wind River” peak–a quest inspired by an episode with his climbing partner, Paul Horton, on an obscure and seemingly unvisited summit: “As Paul led toward a chimney on the final pitch, he let out an equivocal chuckle…. ‘What?’ ‘A piton.'”
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My Big Scary First Ascent
Before she and Bev Johnson made the first female ascent of El Capitan, Sibylle Hechtel lead her first unclimbed big wall in the Wind Rivers: “Dick handed me our minimal gear, pointed, and said, “Just head up that corner until you get to a good ledge, and set up a belay.’ I gulped.”
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Tower I Ice Couloir, Mt. Helen
Bill Lindberg and I are several pitches up a narrow couloir on the north side of Mt. Helen. A thick, even ribbon of white divides the tawny-grey granite walls that rise steeply above us on either side. The granular, late-season ice accepts the picks of our piolets and rigid crampon points perfectly. Thus far, the…
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Chris Van Leuven’s “Going Home” Selected for The Best American Sports Writing 2016
Chris Van Leuven’s story “Going Home,” which first appeared on the cover of Alpinist 51, has been selected for inclusion in this year’s The Best American Sports Writing anthology.
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