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FA Bourbon Tan in Hyalite Canyon
Craig Pope and Mark Pujic on the first ascent of their new mixed line in Hyalite Canyon, Bourbon Tan, M8+. According to videographer Pete Tapley “[The]verall length is right at 60m and the grade is M8+ with some bolt protection to start off, then classic Hyalite M6 choss on natural gear to reach the ice.”…
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Metolius Master Cam: Sleek and Sexy
While there is a cam or two on the market that has a wider expansion range and can handle shallower cracks, the Master Cam is a worthy competitor and an expertly manufactured piece of pro.
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Speed Series Part IV: Hans Florine
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “I think we may have [speed climbed] before we called it that… We were in college, and we wanted to get in as much climbing as we could before classes…
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Piolet d’Or Nominees
Since the Piolet d’Or’s rebirth, multiple awards have become standard, and it seems likely that on April 15 there could be several given out. Each of the teams exhibited good style in a committing environment. The Piolet d’Or’s festivities will run from the weekend April 9-10 through April 16 with evening events open to the…
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Mountain Hardwear Phantom 32: Packs Like A Peanut
Weighing just 1 pound, 7 ounces, this down-filled sack has no frills. No Gore-Tex or other waterproof coatings to repel moisture and no extra, hidden pockets for your snicker bars. It’s just a simple pairing of paper-thin nylon and 800-fill down.
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Golden Decade: The Birth of 8000m Winter Climbing
Winter in the Himalaya is difficult for many reasons. Temperatures at base camp can plummet to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and much lower farther up. Because of the cold, climbing at night is virtually impossible, and the days are short. The winds are much stronger and more persistent because of the jet stream, which blows…
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Hungry First Ascent on Mt. Bradley
Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman opened a new route up the SE buttress of Mount Bradley on April 5, 2010. The 4600 feet of sustained climbing over varied terrain was named Vitalogy (Alaska Grade 5, 5.9R A1 WI5 M6+) and consists of 29 pitches, 19 of which were M5 or WI4 or harder. The ascent…
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Griffith’s Patagonia 2010
Alpinist reported on Jon Griffith and Will Sim’s great experience in Patagonia soon after the two returned to the UK in “East Face of Piergiorgio”. But the Newswire couldn’t capture the “full value” of the experience. Though it might take a little while to load, we at Alpinist think you will enjoy the following video.…
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Speed Series Part III: Ueli Steck
Recently, we at Alpinist picked the brains of the speediest climbers to learn more about speed climbing and how it fits into our grade-crazy community. “I think it is nice to be able to climb a peak in several hours instead of several days. You don’t have to suffer so much.”
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Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons: A Beautifully Crafted Hack-Job
Even though stainless steel isn’t the ultralight miracle metal that one might believe, Black Diamond’s design and construction alone make the newest Cyborg one of the best tools available for hard winter climbing.
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Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia
In the early 1990’s Lowe struggled through a divorce, a failed business and deep remorse for neglecting his two-year-old daughter. Needing an escape from this emotional crisis, he made a solo pilgrimage to the Eiger’s Nordwand. When one of the world’s greatest climbers makes a solo winter attempt on the most legendary north face in…
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Bozeman’s Pete Tapley on a Mixed First Ascent
A trad route with decent natural gear that includes small cams, wires, pins and some clutch Spectre placements in frozen moss and choss.
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