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“Give Everest a Break:” An Interview with Norbu Tenzing Norgay
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We talk with Norbu Tenzing Norgay, son of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa (who summited Mt. Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953), to learn about the unfolding humanitarian crisis on Everest.
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Reflecting on A Friend’s Climbing Path
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Ten years after a brutal fall left him shattered, James Lucas achieved a life-long goal: a free ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in a single day. Jens Holsten reflects on his friend’s accomplishment, and on a life committed to climbing.
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New Mixed Climbs on Norway’s Senja Island
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Senja Island, the second largest island in Norway, is a spectacular and pristine land that faces the open Norwegian Sea on the country’s ragged northwest coast. The coastal region, with its fickle winter weather, is perfect for mixed climbing protected by trad gear.
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Big Reinhold, Little Reinhold: Chapter 4
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The Call
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Lately I’ve been missing the quiet wilderness of Argentina and have been feeling the pull to return to the simplicity of those windy peaks on the edge of the Southern Hemisphere. In 2002 I visited the smoking mountains of El Chalten and entered into perhaps the most powerful flow state I’ve ever experienced. The Call describes this vague process. I don’t understand it any better today than I did back then, but every moment I’m pursuing my arts is an attempt to further the deepness of these elevated states.– Dean S. Potter
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Never Ending
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Last week, we published a NewsWire by Jens Holsten on the 1,250-foot alpine route he and Vern Nelson Jr. established in the Cascade Mountains in memory of alpinist Chad Kellogg. As a follow-up, Holsten agreed to republish his story Never Ending from Alpinist 47 on his travels with Kellogg in the Cascades and their last climb together in Patagonia.
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First All-Female Ascent of Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route
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On February 21, 2015, Caroline (Caro) North and Christina Huber (AU) reached the summit of 10,262-foot Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route (M4 90 degrees, 600m), marking the first all-female team ascent, done free and unsupported, of the Patagonian tower.
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Chapter 3: Big Reinhold, Little Reinhold
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American Horror Story: A Climber’s Obsession
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I first noticed the line, at the Sabbatical Wall in Indian Creek, Utah, last spring. I was mesmerized by its 150-foot wildly overhanging dihedral system composed of multiple offwidth roofs, all set on alluring red-brown Wingate 200 feet off the ground.
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Profile: Ken Yager, Winner of the David R. Brower Conservation Award
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It was love at first sight when Ken Yager met Yosemite Valley for the first time in 1972. Living in Davis, California, 13-year-old Yager and his parents drove five hours east in the family car to Yosemite. The first thing he wanted to see in the Valley was El Capitan, a 3,000-foot-high granite monolith that loomed above the valley floor.
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Craig Muderlak: Coloring Outside the Lines
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“The adventure for the race was unknown, and it could have been over my head,” Craig Muderlak says. “With most of my illustrations, I don’t know how they’ll turn out and I have no guarantee of a good outcome.”
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Chapter 2: Big Reinhold, Little Reinhold
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Matt Van Biene: Chalten Portraits (Chapter 2)
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A few weeks ago, we published Matt Van Biene’s black-and-white portraits of climbers in El Chalten, Argentine Patagonia. This week we bring you chapter 2 of Biene’s project–this time with continuous scrolling–with his remaining images.
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Chapter 1: Big Reinhold, Little Reinhold
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Lion in Winter: Mt. Temple’s North Face
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They call the Canadian Rockies’ Mt. Temple the Eiger of North America. Both peaks offer sheer north faces with steep imposing headwalls that soar 1500 meters above the valleys below, both feature compact limestone, both are regularly subject to tempestuous weather that can appear out of seemingly calm skies. Perhaps most importantly, both are steeped in mystery, lore and ominous histories.
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Matt Van Biene: Chalten Portraits
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Recently, while browsing through Instagram, I noticed about a half dozen images by Matt Van Biene–climber portraits taken in El Chalten, Argentine Patagonia. The black-and-white portraits, shot very close to the climbers, caught my eye. I sent him a quick message stating that we were interested in showcasing his work on alpinist.com.
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The Question: The Direct East Face of Golgotha
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The Revelation Mountains, Alaska, during Clint Helander and Jason Stuckey’s first ascent of Apocalypse (9,345′) in April 2013. David Roberts noticed the distant range in 1966, while he was on an expedition to the Kitchatna Spires.
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John Price: Canadian Rockies Ice
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Photographer John Price has been climbing for the past six years and shooting photos for the past three.”I’ve been lucky to have photographic mentors in the Rockies,” he tells us.
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The Gift: Tahu Rutum, West Face, Karakoram, Pakistan
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“I always thought it that it looked like a Patagonian spire misplaced in Pakistan,” Dempster says.
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Carl Battreall: A Collection of Climbed and Unclimbed Alaska Peaks
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Photographer Carl Battreall shares his collection of Alaska’s climbed and unclimbed peaks. The photos in this collection are from his upcoming book, The Alaska Range, due out in spring 2016.
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The Cold Case: Mt. Herschel, East Face, Antarctica
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The unclimbed east face of Mt. Herschel (3355m), an objective that Sir Edmund Hillary once dreamed of, more than a decade after the first ascent of Mt. Everest.
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Sarah Uhl–Rear View Mountains
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“I’m self-taught, my friend” says illustrator Sarah Uhl over heavy static from the road on her way back to Carbondale, Colo. from Hood River, Ore. “I started making illustrations about a year ago.” Her work has appeared in the latest issue of Alpinist, various projects for The American Alpine Club, Mountain Flyer Magazine and on semi-rad’s tees.
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The Mysterious Case of Beka Brakai Chhok
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8000ers.com, historian Eberhard Jurgalski describes the uncertain elevations of Beka Brakai Chhok’s three peaks as “truly one of the most confusing subjects in the history of High Asian research.
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Unclimbed
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Nearly twelve years after Alpinist’s first “Unclimbed” feature, Kelly Cordes reminds readers that there are still plenty of vertical mysteries. Damien Gildea, Kyle Dempster, Tamostu Nakamura, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Harish Kapadia, Pat Deavoll and Clint Helander share a few examples.
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Interview with Reinhold Messner
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Alpinist’s Digital Editor Chris Van Leuven sits down with legendary alpinist Reinhold Messner on February 2, 2015, to talk about rock climbing, high-altitude climbing, Messner’s castle and mountaineering museum, and his well-known climbing partner Peter Habeler.
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Free Mud
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Alpinist’s Digital Editor met with Stevie Haston at the 2015 Winter Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City to talk about his love for the Utah desert. As a follow-up to the interview, we’re republishing Haston’s account of completing the Titan’s first free ascent, via the 1,000-foot Sundevil Chimney (5.13a).
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Searching for Jensen
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Alpinist’s intern from last summer, Brad Rassler, goes on a quest to learn about fallen mountaineer, mathematician and pack designer Don Jensen.
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Kevin Jorgeson: The Last Day on the Dawn Wall
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Alpinist’s Digital Editor Chris Van Leuven visits with Kevin Jorgeson at the Outdoor Retailer show on January 22 to discuss the last day of the Dawn Wall, Day 19, Jorgeson’s battle with the 5.12 flare on Pitch 29, and the final moments before reaching the top.
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Face Time with Wild Man Stevie Haston
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Alpinist sits down at the Outdoor Retailer trade show to interview Stevie Haston, the UK powerhouse known for his bold, standard-setting climbs across all genres, hair-raising desert-tower free ascents on rock barely more solid than mud and his blunt-spoken manner. Now living on the Maltese island of Gozo, Haston still whips out 1,500-pull-up training days to keep his edge.
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Bob Craig: Remembering the 1953 K2 Expedition
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Alpinist contributor Bob Craig passed away at age 90. He’s legendary for his role in the 1953 K2 expedition and the attempt to rescue team member Art Gilkey. The following story was originally published in Alpinist 37.