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Mike Dewey: The Art of Observation
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Longtime Yosemite climber, and mixed-medium artist Mike Dewey expresses his love for the walls and climbing community on canvas and stone.
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Video: Fitz Traverse
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Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold travel to Patagonia to find the limit of their capabilities, and “do the kind of stuff [they] see in Alpinist Magazine.”
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Video: Aid Turns Free on Mt. Hooker
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Inspired during a trip to Wyoming’s Wind River Range the previous season, David Allfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle returned to the Winds this August to free an A3 route on Mt. Hooker. Kyle Berkompas filmed their project.
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Slideshow: Unclimbed Big Walls of Siberia
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Inspired by a single photo, Australians Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner visit unclimbed big walls in remote northeastern Russia. Pulling out moss clumps and excavating gear placements with a nut tool, the team established six new routes and, with their camera, captured the experience.
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Remembering Eric Bjornstad, Desert Rat of the Old School
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One desert icon remembers the life of another.
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Alpine-Style Attempts on the South Face of Nuptse
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Two Canadian alpinists dodge large avalanches on the storied South Face of Nuptse. None of their several attempts extends beyond half height on the massive alpine wall, but–through careful decision-making–they live to tell the story.
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Short Film: K6 West
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Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted and Jesse Huey travel to Pakistan to climb K6 West. At the moment of their departure down the KKH, they learn of the massacre at Nanga Parbat base camp. Each is now faced with a decision. As Jesse returns home, Raphael and Ian continue with the trip and ultimately stand on the 7040m unclimbed summit.
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To Know
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In the final installment of our series of essays about climbing in the High Sierra’s Palisades group, Steve Porcella quests for the “remote, barren, trailless, treeless, oxygenless and peopleless,” where he finds out what it is to really know a mountain range.
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Back(side) Pain
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“Sixty-five Sierra routes that first summer; about a dozen the next, a fifth of them first ascents. Brutal-as-hell approaches with seventy-pound packs, decrepit knees and bad footwear. I blame Steve, but really, he and I were just the syringe plungers, and the Sierra Nevada was the heroin.”
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More than a Mountain
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Peter Croft ambles along “the local epicenter of sideways mountaineering”–the High Sierra’s Palisades–in his own Peter Croft kind of way.
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The Nature of Memory
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Joan Jensen searches through old boxes to uncover memories of her daring yet methodical soulmate, the late Don Jensen.
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Middle Palisade
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One tenacious historian relives the early days of Palisades climbing.
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44 Mountain Profile: The Palisades
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A Note from Our Palisades Profile Writer
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I thought I knew the Palisades, my home range. That is until I was deep in the process of writing a Mountain Profile about them for Alpinist 48.
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Picking the Plum Line on the Storm Creek Headwall
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“…As Marc neared the station, he asked if all climbing in the Rockies was this good. I had to apologize for spoiling him on his first route.”
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Chasing the Ethereal on South Howser Tower
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There are only a handful of days in a climber’s life where weather, conditions and partner line up like the planets aligning to create a rare event: a magical first ascent.
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Yosemite Hardwomen: An El Cap Speed Ascent Debrief
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An interview with Valley speed climbers Quinn Brett, Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat.
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The Calling: A Life Rocked by Mountains
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In 2006, Barry Blanchard wrote “The Calling” for Issue 15. In writing his new memoir, The Calling: A Life Rocked by Mountains, Blanchard used the Alpinist feature story as a springboard to continue exploring the climbs and partnerships that developed from his childhood musings growing up in Calgary.
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The Calling
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Growing up poor in Calgary didn’t just encourage dreaming; for one young boy, it necessitated it. Canada’s storied alpinist recounts the climbs and partnerships that sprung from his childhood fantasies.
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Barbara Washburn: Accidentally Adventurous, Deliberately Brave
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As a mother, wife, climber, cartographer and self-described “accidental adventurer,” Barbara Washburn was the antitheses of a ’40s housewife. “Sometimes [my] home would be in an igloo, at 12,000 feet, sharing Tang-flavored fig pudding with my husband; or as the lightest climber going first to test the cornices on a narrow exposed ridge; or staring out at summit views that no one else had seen.”
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The Patagonia Climbing Season is Coming
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As the austral summer approaches, videographer and climber Tad McCrea reminisces about climbing seasons past and offers a bit of advice to climbers everywhere: “[S]cour the interwebs for cheap airfare, unearth your passports, patch your gear and pack your bags.”
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Amazing Grace: A Tribute to Brian Delaney
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Patrick Horne remembers his friend Brian Delaney, a New England climber who transformed his ambling gait into graceful movement whenever he touched rock.
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The Sunlit Ledge
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A regular illustrator for our print magazine, Jamie Givens advises how to begin the monumental task of following your dreams. “Start with what you love,” he says. “Most people don’t realize that the knowledge they have about something that they are passionate about, the years spent memorizing information, physical skills developed, expertise, is all a marketable commodity.”
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Surviving the Best Pitch in the Pickets
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Blake Herrington adds his own saga to the story of Picket Range climbing.
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Early Season in the Mt. Blanc Massif: A Photo Gallery
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Fred Degoulet and Benjamin Guigonnet lead the charge into a promising winter season in the Mont Blanc massif, and come back with photos.
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Lessons from 40 Years of Accidents: An Interview with Jed Williamson
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Jed Williamson is retiring after four decades as the editor of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Having dedicated some 5,000 hours to the journal, he may know more about North America’s climbing accidents than anyone else on the continent.
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More Important Than the Summit
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Mugs Stump Award recipient Kyle Dempster returns from Pakistan, not with a fresh routeline to draw up The Shining Wall of Gasherbrum IV (7925m), but with a story about choosing a friend over a summit.
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A Tribute to Fly’n Brian McCray
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Chris Van Leuven calls up a few friends of his mentor Brian McCray to share memories and create an outline of the late climber’s character and legacy.
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Alpine Exposures: A Photo Gallery
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Over the last decade behind his lens, Jon Griffith has focused on mountain sports photography: alpine, rock and ice climbing, backcountry skiing, BASE jumping, paragliding and speed riding. But beyond the dusky alpenglow and crisp ridgelines, the bulk of Griffith’s oeuvre is extraordinary in another important and more unusual way: it’s real.
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Ham and Eggs, Community-Style
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Unusual conditions in the Central Alaska Range one season leaves the classic Ham and Eggs (V 5.8 AI4) slathered in snice and yielding only to a collective, siege-style effort by the growing community of climbers at its base.