Oxford Climbers Find Mishaps, Tomfoolery and New Routes in Greenland
During a five-week climbing bonanza this summer, Oxford University Mountaineering Club members Tom Codrington, Jacob Cook, Ian Faulkner and Peter Hill sailed among the granite cliffs of Greenland, establishing six new big-wall routes, including two up the thrice-attempted Horn of Upernivik Island (1700m). Along the way, Seal hunters shot bullets over their heads, one rogue husky ate vital climbing equipment, and they made memories they would eradicate from their minds if they could.
Yosemite’s Young Pup: Cheyne Lempe Talks About His Salathe Wall Solo
Though he had climbed El Capitan in a day–three times–twenty-two-year-old Cheyne Lempe spent the days leading up to his solo attempt on the Salathe Wall (VI 5.9 A2, 2,900′) trying not to puke out of the apprehension. “Tomorrow I’m going to try to climb the Salathe Wall on El Cap, in one day, by myself… Man, all those words in the same sentence just sounds… sounds like it’s going to be a lot of suffering….”
Slildeshow: Wiping El Cap’s Nose
Two climbers recently rappelled the upper reaches of El Capitan to conduct a traditional “Nose Wipe.” They hauled out garbage by the bag-full, but an estimated 500 pounds of debris remains on Yosemite’s best-known route.
Cheyne Lempe Breaks 21-Year Record on Salathe Wall
In just over 20 hours on November 6 and 7, Cheyne Lempe rope soloed the Salathe Wall (VI 5.9 A2, 2,900′, Frost-Prett-Robbins, 1961) of El Capitan, the fastest solo ascent of the route yet made. Shortly after finishing the climb, Lempe produced an edit of his time alone on the wall.