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Exped Downmat 9: For a Solid Night’s Sleep

After a big session on the Torres in Patagonia last winter I came back to advanced base camp and found my body seizing up from raw abuse. I had never used an Exped Downmat 9 (distributed in North America by Outdoor Research), but I snagged one out of a friend’s tent and collapsed into a solid night’s sleep. As soon as I woke up I was jealous of my buddy’s pad and swore I’d never do another expedition without one. Since then, the Downmat 9 has allowed me to have sweet dreams while camped on the rock slabs in the Bugaboos, as well as some winter roadside bivies along the Icefields Parkway in the cold Canadian Rockies.

La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light: Warmth and Stability

Preparing for an ice climbing trip is like preparing for war. The enemy: screaming barfies, brittle ice and–worst of all–warming your partner’s freezing toes on your stomach. So when packing for a day of climbing in the Canadian Rockies, I was glad to know my feet would be well taken care of in the Trango Extreme Evo Light boots. I have owned the La Sportiva Trango boots, the little sister boot without a toe-bail notch, for a while. They are super comfortable, but a bit soft for long sections of ice. So for the artillery, I chose the Trango Extremes.